You have probably heard of cognac, one of the most famous brandies in the world. But did you know that it is also the name of a town? Located in the south-west of France, along the magnificent Charente River, this elegant commune is not only the home of its eponymous spirit. It is home to centuries of history, gourmet local ingredients, and amazing culture. It’s only a hop n skip away from Bordeaux too. I visit this city frequently for work and created this guide to show you how to spend a day in Cognac.
Skip to:
- Château de Cognac & Saint-Jacques Gate
- Cognac’s Old Town
- Cognac’s Town Hall & Public Garden
- Where to shop and eat in Cognac
- Cognac’s most impressive church
- Cognac’s oldest house
- Covered market
- Best bar in town
- Visiting a cognac producer
Cognac has been the center of international trade for hundreds of years. Dutch, Scottish, and even Danish Vikings voyaged here, most notably for salt, but also for wood and wine. It was through trade that brandy itself was invented. Dutch traders needed a way to stop their wine from going bad, so they distilled it into something called “brandewijn” which means burnt wine.
A walk along the quays shows the importance of the river and its impact on trade. Some of the largest and most impressive buildings of the city can be found along the Charente River. These include the world’s largest cognac producers and historical sites, such as the Saint-Jacques gate. This fortress-like gate was once the entrance to the city, with a connecting bridge to the other side of the river. While the bridge has since moved, the gate is still the perfect place to enter downtown, opening directly to the Château de Cognac.
This town boasts remarkable architecture, particularly in its “Old Town”. Ornately designed mansions, lifelike statues, and perfectly manicured grounds are a testament of the wealth of nobility and merchants from the trading days.
One of these mansions (once belonging to Mrs Claire Otard de la Grange, Vicomtesse de Lavilléo), in the middle of town, had been converted into Cognac’s town hall. It is surrounded by 7ha of beautiful public gardens, including flowers, forests, ponds, waterfalls, fountains, animal housing, caves, playgrounds, art installations, etc.
The animals are my favourite part. Geese and ducks roam freely around the park (above are a group of geese that always stick together and cause trouble!) while there are enclosures of chickens, roosters, peacocks, doves, a turkey, pheasants, bunnies, goats, and more. Nearby is the Pavillion Gothique, which is a small tower from 1835 set in water.
The park is located in the middle of Cognac’s Old Town. Narrow cobblestone streets lead away from the park to points of interest, such as Porte St Martin. This is a pedestrian-only street lined with all sorts of boutiques, restaurants, and courtyards.
I highly recommend stopping inside a local pâtisserie/boulangerie/chocolatier for a treat. Besides classic French bites like pain au chocolat (sometimes called chocolatines in this part of France), or croissants, you can also find local baked favourites such as Cornuelles. These addictive triangular biscuits are shortbread with a shiny egg wash and pink and white anise-flavoured sprinkles. They can only be found in the Charentais region of France. You can also indulge in chocolates infused with cognac.
Along this street, you can find the largest church in Cognac: L’église Saint-Léger. It was originally constructed in 1130, but was enlarged and remodeled over the following three centuries. Because of this, it displayed several different architectural styles. The building itself is nestled in the middle of shops and apartments, making it a little difficult to photograph, but still impressive to view — particularly its Saintonge Romanesque style arches that display the zodiac.
Keep your eyes open and you will find a hidden alley next to the church. It leads to Prieuré Saint-Léger. Its ancient arches and French-style garden are a quiet, contemplative space away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
There are actually several pedestrian streets branching off of this one. They have all kinds of shops and points of interest worth visiting. For example, the oldest house in Cognac can be found on nearby rue Grande. Dating back to the early 1600s, Maison de la Lieutenance was the former home of the lieutenant-general of the time.
Not too far away is the Marché couvert, or covered market. It is open every morning except for Mondays and is filled with all sorts of local products. Besides cognac (and pineau), this region is famous for its foie gras, oysters, and truffles. The building is inspired by the famed architect Victor Baltard.
Most of the pedestrian streets above lead to Place François 1er. Named after the king of France born here, this is a beautiful roundabout surrounded by bars, restaurants, and hotels. A statue of the king is on full display.
It is in this place where you can find the best and most famous bar in the city: Bar Louise. Their menu highlights cognac, local spirits, and fresh homemade products. In addition to their huge selection of cognacs, their staff are highly knowledgeable about each product and maison. They can walk you through the cognac-making process and even sample custom flights of the spirit.
I highly recommend trying their cocktails for something different. I tried their most popular cocktail Pearnuts (cognac, pear cordial, walnut bitters, verjuice) and a classic Vieux Carré (cognac, red vermouth, Bénédictine, Peychaud and Angostura bitters). While they were very different from each other, both were delicious.
Of course, no trip to Cognac is complete without a visit to a cognac maison — the name for cognac producers. Most of the biggest names (Hennessy, Martell, Rémy Martin) can be found here. Each maison is different and offers different visiting experiences. All of them offer a tasting at the end of the tour.
You can read about my experience visiting Hennessy here. I had a very comprehensive visit of its distilleries, cellars, and ateliers. I also enjoyed a tasting masterclass and ate lunch in their private Château de Bagnolet. It was certainly a memorable day!
If you have time, I also recommend visiting the surrounding villages. Nearby is Jarnac, the second largest production spot of cognac. I will be posting a separate article about this village soon.
Overall, Cognac is a fantastic place to visit. Fantastic sightseeing opportunities. Unique spirits tasting experiences. It really has a lot to offer and is worth the trek if you are in the Southwest of France.
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