Hennessy is an icon of pop culture. It is the biggest producer of cognac, located in Cognac, France. Literally the H in LVMH, it is, in fact, one of the biggest spirit companies in the world: it is one of the “big four” cognac houses, who together make around 85% of the world’s cognac. Last week, I had the pleasure of getting an exclusive behind-the-scenes look through a private Hennessy visit and lunch at Château de Bagnolet.
Skip ahead to:
- What is Cognac?
- Distillery
- The Boutique
- Multisensory Museum
- The Chais
- Editions Rares Atelier
- Taste Testing
- Lunch at Château de Bagnolet
You’re probably wondering what exactly is cognac and why is it so special? Essentially, it is a brandy (a liquor produced by distilling wine) that is only made in the Cognac region of France (just north of Bordeaux in the southwest of the country). It differs from other brandies for several reasons.
First, almost only ugni blanc grapes are used to make the wine that is the base of this beverage. This grape has high acidity, low sugar, and good disease resistance. Low sugars means low alcohol levels in the base wines, which allows them to be distilled for longer before they reach their intended alcoholic strength. The more the base wines are distilled, the purer the resulting spirit. The wines are actually drinkable, but are pretty unremarkable: light, crisp, and relatively neutral-tasting. Almost all of it is used for brandy production.
Good disease resistance is important because the climate of this region is cool and damp, caused by its proximity to the ocean and the large Charente River that runs through it. Unlike for certain sweet wines, rotten grapes are unusable for cognac production. The vines are planted far apart, allowing for machine harvesting.
Another big difference is the distillation process. Unlike for other brandies like Armagnac, the wine is actually distilled twice. This results in more aromatic eaux-de-vie.
The first stop of my Hennessy visit was to one of their distilleries, hidden in old nondescript buildings surrounded by vineyards. Most cognac houses source their eaux-de-vie from local distillers, but Henessy actually distills some its own.
Using nearly the same process for 250 years, impressive Charentais copper alembic stills are used for this rather technical operation. These elegant alembics comprise of several pots with onion-shaped domes. Wine is places into the pot to boil. As it does, alcoholic vapours collect inside the dome and escape through a swan neck pipe to be condensed into another receptacle. Leftover wine in the onion dome is then distilled, producing what is known as”brouillis”. This is then distilled a second time to produce “bonne chauffe”, which is stores in oak barrels to age over time. I will go into aging a bit later on.
The next part of my tour brought us to the Hennessy Boutique in Cognac, to wait for our next guide. Here, we were able to find exclusive products that are either limited edition, made for other markets outside of France, or flagships available in a wide variety of sizes. For example, Master Blender and Pure White (made for the US and Caribbean markets, respectively) are not typically available in France, but were available here.
Rare products were also on display (and actually available for special order). The 150th anniversary edition of Hennessy X.O was a focal point: a gold and crystal reinterpretation of the classic magnum bottle by Frank Gehry. A 1L bottle of Hennessy Edition Particuliere 2017 was illuminated within a glass case. It retails for €25,000.
After perusing and making a few purchases, I introduced to our new guide and was escorted to the Hennessy ferry. Crossing the Charente River, this boat not only provided beautiful views of the city. It was also quick transportation to the Hennessy Chais (cellars) and Museum.
On the other side of the river, I was escorted through an old stone compound. Through a pair of giant heavy doors, I stepped into the Hennessy Museum.
The museum is an immersive, multisensory experience taking patrons through the 8 generations of the Hennessy legacy, exploring over 250 years of cognac excellence and savoir faire. I thought it was really worth the hype. Contemporary architecture and the use of different media made it aesthetically pleasing and memorable.
We started the visit an exciting multi-screen video about the brand’s (and the Hennessy family’s) history.
This was then followed by interactive descriptions of the 6 crus of cognac (grape growth regions), details about the grapes and vineyards, the terroirs (complete with soil sample displays), and the cognac-making process.
My favourite part of the museum, though, was the section about tonnellerie, or barrel-making (cooperage is the proper term in English). Hennessy is actually the last large cognac Maison to still make their own. It is truly an artform.
While watching videos of coopers bending thick planks of oak and toasting them, I was immersed with real aromas of the wood, making me feel like I was actually in the workshop with them. The scent changed as the process evolved, from freshly cut wood at the beginning to smoky vanilla at the end.
The museum visit ended with a section about the brand in modern-day. I really cool video was projected from a giant globe suspended in the floor, showing the brand’s relevance in pop culture through the decades. You can watch part of it below.
Remember how I mentioned that cognac is different from other spirits? Another reason why cognac so unique is that it is usually a blend of many eaux-de-vie that have been aged for varying degrees of time. Very rarely, an exceptional eau-de-vie might be be bottled as a single vintage, or cuvée.
At this point, I had the privilege of exploring the Hennessy cellars, or chais as they are known in French.
It was an impressive sight to behold. Thousands of casks stretched around me, most undisturbed for decades. As I explained earlier, they are filled with eaux-de-vies. Hennessy possesses the largest reserves in the world, with over 470,000 casks resting in its cellars.
They spend years, or even centuries aging in these cellars. French oak from nearby Limousin is used, as it gives a vanilla-like flavour to the eaux-de-vies as they mature. The Master Taster/Blender and his team test 11,000 eaux-de-vies per year to determine if they are ready to be blended into cognac.
Each cask has impeccable calligraphy listing important information, such as the year, batch, and vineyard that the grapes were from. Flowers are placed on the first barrel that a calligrapher signs — a huge honour and celebration.
Eaux-de-vies can reach their peak at any year. It depends on a variety of factors, such as grape growing conditions and cellar conditions. Some are ready after a couple of years, while others are able to mature for decades. Generally, maturation won’t really improve after 60 years. Once they are at their best, they are transferred from wooden casks to dame-jeannes. These are thick glass demijohns protected by hand-woven wicker coverings that are then sealed. The inert glass stops the aging process and the wicker protects the interior from light. Rare blends (actual cognacs) can also be stored in these. They can last for hundreds of years if stored properly.
The very best and oldest eaux-de-vies are stored in the Founders Cellar. Some are centuries old!
Cognac classification is standardized across the industry and is based on the age of the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend.
- Very Special (VS) is the result of a blend of eaux-de-vie aged for at least two years. It is the “youngest” cognac and is Hennessy’s most popular product in the US. It is great for cocktails and cooking.
- Very Special Old Pale (VSOP) is a blend of eaux-de-vie aged for at least four years, and not more than fifteen years. It’s also good for cocktails and cooking, but it can be enjoyed on ice too.
- Extra Old (XO) is a blend of eaux-de-vie aged for at least 10 years, but many Maisons usually have an average age of between 15 and 20 years. This is usually the “gold standard” of most cognac brands. It is best enjoyed neat, over ice, or paired with food.
- Extra Extra Old (XXO) is a blend of eaux-de-vie aged for at least 14 years. It is the oldest official rating for cognac — even if a blend is made only from eaux-de-vie that are hundreds of years old! Just like XO, it can be enjoyed neat, over ice, or paired with food.
In case you are wondering, Hennessy Beauté du Siècle is one of the rarest products by the Maison. It was created by blending the rarest eaux-de-vie of Hennessy, ranging in ages from 80-150 years. Only 100 bottles were produced and it is one of the most expensive cognacs in the world. A 1L bottle costs around €250,000.
Rare cognacs are brought to Hennessy’s Atelier Editions Rares. This workshop is where specialists design, build, and customize special orders for Hennessy’s rarest products. It is currently closed to the public.
I had the chance to see workers skillfully assemble Hennessy 8. A “beyond exclusive” product, it is made up of an original blend of eight eaux-de-vie linked to each generation of Hennessy master blenders, all in a crystal decanter imagined by designer Arik Levy and mouth-blown in the Baccarat workshops. Only 250 of these exist.
Finally, my tour ended with a tasting session. Tasting spirits, particularly strong ones like cognac, is a difference experience than with wine! Unlike wine, you do not want to “aerate” the liquid in your mouth. Also unlike wine, you spit almost right away. This way, you taste the flavours and not the alcohol.
My tasting began with a newly distilled-eau-de-vie. I then tasted 4 others according to different maturation lengths and barrel ages (for example, younger barrels will have a stronger effect on the spirit’s flavour). I finished by tasting and comparing VS, VSOP, and then XO.
My day ended with lunch at Château de Bagnolet. Built on the banks of the Charente River in 1810, and surrounded by seven acres of grounds, this was the Hennessy family estate until the 1970s. Now, it is owned by Maison Hennessy and is used to host and entertain VIP guests like celebrities and the very best clients. It was truly a privilege for me to be there.
Much of the interior has remained unchanged through the decades. Its sumptuous decor is inspired by travel and the French art de vivre for which the Maison is renowned. Personal touches like family portraits still remain.
Upon entering, I was greeted by butlers and served a cocktail: a French Apple. I enjoyed it in the salon, with a view of the gardens. It was delicious: lots of flavour, not too sweet, and a hint of spice. Many whisky-based cocktails were in fact originally made with cognac. I think the complexity of cognac’s aromas and flavours add a special something that doesn’t exist in other spirits.
Lunch was held in the magnificent greenhouse attached to the Château. It felt magical to sit at such an impressive table, served by gloved butlers, surrounded by tropical plants. Light pattering of rain from outside added to the ambience.
The appetizer was a fresh asparagus mousse, drizzled with balsamic vinegar, on a parmesan sablé. It was served with lightly steamed green asparagus spears, herbed sauce, and freshly baked bread.
The main was melt-in-your-mouth lamb, slow cooked in red wine. It was served with vegetables, fresh herbs, and an individual gravy boat on the side — which was enjoyed with extra bread! A really good local red wine was paired with the dish.
Dessert was a sublime vanilla panna cotta. It was served on top of fruit compote, drizzled with citrus sauce, and pistachios, and topped with a caramelized tuile. It was light and perfect. After this, it was time to return home.
Overall, I feel incredibly fortunate and grateful for this opportunity. It was such an honour to get this exclusive look into one of the world’s biggest spirit brands. After learning about its centuries of history and savoir-faire, it is easy to see why this is such an iconic Maison. Thank you, Hennessy, for this visit of a lifetime!
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