Imagine stepping into a place where history, art, and the essence of Burgundy converge. L’Hôtel-Dieu of the Hospices de Beaune is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, housing centuries of medical innovation and priceless treasures. It is more than a monument; it’s a living testament to compassion. But the magic doesn’t stop at its walls. Each November, this iconic site transforms into the stage for the Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction, the world’s most famous charity wine sale. Here, amidst the buzz of bidders and the clink of wine glasses, Burgundy’s finest vintages are auctioned off, blending tradition, philanthropy, and celebration in a way that captivates all who attend. In this article, I tell you all about this fascinating place and the auction, with this year’s results!
Menu
History
Visiting the Hospices de Beaune
About the Wine Auction
A Glimpse Into the History of the Hospices de Beaune
Founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor to Duke Philip the Good, and his wife Guigone de Salins, the Hospices de Beaune was created as a charitable hospital for the poor. At the time, Burgundy was ravaged by famine, the aftermath of the Hundred Years’ War, and the plague, leaving many destitute. Rolin and Salins envisioned the Hospices as a sanctuary, providing medical care and refuge.
The hospital was revolutionary for its time. First, its beauty and grandeur were uncommon for the less fortunate. It also has exceptional standards of cleanliness. High-quality fresh food and clean drinking water were provided through the hospital’s well-equipped kitchens.
Rolin also founded a training school so that local women “of good repute” could learn how to properly attend to patients and assist in the preparation of medicines. Known as “Les soeurs Hospitialieres de Beaune“, these nuns cared for patients here until the 1970’s.
In fact, the Hospices remained a functioning hospital for over five hundred years, ceasing its original operations in 1971, and finally ending all medical services in 1984. Today, it stands as a museum, showcasing its historical significance and architectural beauty while its mission of charity lives on through its renowned wine auction.
Visiting the Hospices de Beaune
The Hospices de Beaune dazzles visitors with its intricate Gothic architecture and distinctive polychrome roof tiles, a symbol of Burgundian nobility. Inside holds an immersive experience that guides visitors through the region’s history, culture, and art throughout the ages.
The Great Hall of the Poor (Salle des Pôvres)
This expansive room is where the Hospices began its mission. Under vaulted wooden ceilings, thirty red-canopied hospital beds give a vivid sense of medieval hospital life.
Each bed was designed to accommodate two or three patients. They also had a chair, a night stand, a commode, and a chest for personal belongings. The room was not heated, so hot water bottles (and probably body heat from neighbours) helped keep the patients warm. Men and women were mixed until the 1650s.
Above, intricate beam carvings feature religious symbols and floral motifs, reflecting the spirituality central to the Hospices’ mission. Little monsters/animal heads also adorn the ceiling. They were added during the restoration work of Violet le Duc in the 1800s. Much of the furniture on display also came from that time.
The Chapel
At one end of the Great Hall lies the small yet ornate chapel, where patients could spiritually reflect and attend mass without leaving their beds. The stained-glass windows, depicting biblical scenes, fill the space with a serene, otherworldly glow. Some of them date back to the 15th century. Every detail, such as the wooden choir stalls, were handmade by local artisans.
The altar is adorned with a replica of the famed Polyptych of the Last Judgment. It depicts scenes of salvation and damnation. The original, a masterpiece by Rogier van der Weyden, can be seen later in the exhibit. It is stored in a light- and temperature-controlled room for preservation. The colours and detail are spectacular to behold.
Saint Hugues Room
Next to the Great Hall is a fantastically ornate room, known as La Salle Saint-Hugues. It was renovated some two-hundred years after the founding of the Hospice, thanks to a generous donation by Hugues Bétauld. It was reserved for affluent men.
Depictions of the Miracle of Saint Hugues (resurrecting children who had died of the plague) and Christ adorn the altar and walls. The ceiling shows the healing of the paralytic in the pool of Bethesda.
Saint Nicholas Room
Much smaller than the Great Hall, with only twelve beds, this room was reserved for only the most dire medical cases. Today, it serves as an exhibition hall on the history of the Hospice and its nuns, as well as interesting anecdotes about patients and medical equipment. There is also a glass slab opening onto the Bouzaise River. Used as the hospital’s wastewater drainage channel, not only chamber pots were emptied here. It was also used for the disposal of amputated body parts among other things.
The Kitchen
Fresh, quality foods were believed to be essential in the healing process. So, it is not surprising that the kitchens are so impressive and well-equipped. Not only did kitchen staff prepare meals for each resident, they also baked bread that was distributed daily to the poor outside of the main doors.
Their hospital food looks a lot nicer than what’s normally on hospital menus today! I fully advocate bringing back rabbit and époisses. Although, maybe patients wouldn’t want to leave after eating so well today.
The Apothecary
My personal favourite part of the visit is the Apothecary. It is a treasure trove for anyone curious about early medicine. The Hospices’ pharmacy is well-equipped with the era’s best remedies. Many of which were prepared on-site using herbs from the surrounding gardens.
Hundreds of carefully labelled ceramic jars and glass bottles hold oils, tinctures, and powders. Some are simple ingredients that we might have in our own kitchens today. While others, like “crayfish eyes”, ambergris, and absinthe salt, are a little more unusual. But they were cutting-edge during their time!
Manuscripts and records detail recipes for treatments, offering insights into the medieval understanding of health and healing. Some of them are on display. A distillation apparatus, for extracting medicinal compounds from plants, is also on display.
Saint Louis Room
The last room of the tour was once dedicated to military patients. Today, it is a museum filled with intricate Gothic chests, a fountain, 16th century tapestries, sculptures, stained glass, gold work, and medical equipment. This is also where you can see Saint Anthony, patron saint of the Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune.
I was particularly enthralled by a Flemish tapestry depicting the story of Jacob and Rachel. Its overlying theme of perseverance in the face of challenges is poignant in this lieu.
The Hospices de Beaune played a historical role in adopting medical innovations. Many of them are present throughout the different rooms of the Hospices, with many of them in the Saint Louis Room. Guyton de Morveau’s fumigation appliance, for example, is an innovative device from the 19 th century for disinfecting hospital spaces. This sulphur-based fumigation method was developed to combat infections and improve hygiene, marking a pivotal shift toward antiseptic practices in medical care. Guyton de Morveau’s work laid the groundwork for modern infection control, influencing advancements in hospital sanitation and public health worldwide.
Another example is the anaesthesia appliance developed by Professor Louis Ombredanne in the early 20th century. This groundbreaking device allowed for safer and more precise administration of ether during surgeries, reducing patient risk and revolutionizing surgical procedures. This invention paved the way for modern anaesthesia techniques, fundamentally transforming pain management and enabling more complex surgical advancements.
This room also touches on the annual Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction and the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. The latter’s symbol is the tastevin, which is also the signature tool of the Bourgogne wine world. It is a small, shallow cup traditionally used by winemakers and sommeliers to help judge the maturity, quality and taste of a wine. The museum has a collection dating back to 1730!
About the Wine Auction
It’s History
Since its foundation charity hospital for the poor in the 1443, the Hospices de Beaune has accumulated holdings through donations of vineyards which continues to this day. The first donation of vines dates from 1457 for a parcel on the Hill of Corton. Today, the Hospices owns 60 hectares covering 140 plots of exceptional vineyards, producing wines from prestigious appellations like Pommard, Meursault, and Corton-Charlemagne. Featured here is their Corton Grand Cru “Les Fiètres” vineyard that I had the chance to visit.
Since 1859, the Hospices de Beaune has been auctioning entire 228L barrels of their wines to raise funds to support its charitable missions. Today, this includes the local hospitals in Burgundy. This Wine Auction, held annually on the 3rd Sunday of November, is the oldest charitable wine auction in the world and also one of the most prestigious wine events. It is the centrepiece of a three-day weekend known as “Les Trois Glorieuses”.
Every year since 1945, a special barrel called the “Presidents’ Barrel” is sold separately for the benefit of one or more charities of the Hospices de Beaune’s choosing.
It generally attracts top collectors and wine merchants, but anyone can join the auction with the help of a wine broker. For those who don’t have thousands of euros laying around for wine, it is also possible to purchase smaller quantities from later bottlings. At the gift shop of the Hospices, for example, bottles are available from 90€ up to 360€.
Besides the actual auction, celebrations and tastings also happen around the city.
Today
November 17th, 2024 marked the 164th iteration of the Wine Auction. Presided by Sotheby’s, a whopping €14.4 M was raised; one of the strongest totals ever. This year was also a historic moment as the Hospices presented its first fully certified organic vintage (Beaune 1er Cru, “Les Bressandes”).
Dominic West, Eva Longoria, Jean Reno, and Zabou Breitment animated the crowd of 700 for this year’s Presidents’ Barrel, produced from a special plot to benefit Médecins sans frontières and the Global Gift Foundation of America. The invited actors were representatives of the charitable organizations.
Alaor Pereira Lino of Anima Vinum, Brazil won the bid with €360,000. He is the creator of a museum dedicated to the Hospices, which is the only place in the world where a complete archive of its wines can be found. Francine Picard, of Domaines Famille Picard (which I visited last year!) pledged a further €100,000.
Overall, a great cause thanks to great wines.