Living Like Burgundian Nobility: A Weekend at Château de Chassagne-Montrachet

Nestled in the heart of the Côte de Beaune region in Burgundy, France, lies the picturesque commune of Chassagne-Montrachet. This enchanting village is not just a postcard-perfect destination; it’s a haven for wine enthusiasts seeking the epitome of elegance in white wines. I was able to take it all in — the sites and the wines — while feeling like Burgundian nobility thanks to a weekend getaway at Château de Chassagne-Montrachet.

Menu

About Chassagne-Montrachet

Staying at Château de Chassagne-Montrachet

Cellar Visit

Tastings

Overall Thoughts

About Chassagne-Montrachet

Chassagne-Montrachet is one of the triumvirate of the “Golden Triangle” of white Burgundies. This prestigious area in the Côte de Beaune region is known for producing some of the finest Chardonnay wines in the world. The triangle includes neighbouring villages Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault. Each of these villages has its own distinct terroir and contributes significantly to the reputation of white Burgundy wines.

Chassagne-Montrachet is known for producing both red and white wines. However, it is the white wines, made exclusively from Chardonnay, that are highly esteemed. The combination of limestone and clay soils, coupled with the region’s microclimate, imparts a distinct character to the wines produced here. They are celebrated for their balance, complexity, and the ability to age gracefully. The Premier and Grand Crus are particularly sought after and can fetch hefty prices.

Staying at Château de Chassagne-Montrachet

At the edge of the village, the impressive Château can be found nestled within prestigious vineyards. In fact, it faces the mystical Grand Cru Vineyard of Le Montrachet – the world’s most expensive and sought-after white wine.

The Château has a long and varied history. The original building’s construction dates to the 11th century, the cellars to the 14th century. It is believed that vines were planted on this site in the 9th century. Over the years, the building passed between many noble families until the French Revolution, when the owner was dragged to the guillotine. The revolutionaries did not destroy the building because they wanted the wine within!

Eventually, the building was rebuilt to its present form in 1849. Michel Picard, a respected negociant and producer in Burgundy, took over the estate in 1997. His daughter, Francine, now spearheads an immense restoration and expansion program. This includes a state-of-the-art tasting room and incredible luxury rooms for guests.

The Room

We stayed in a Luxury King Suite and it was absolutely perfect. I do not think that the photos do it justice. The front door opened to a spacious vestibule, where the WC, bathroom, and bedroom branched out. The room itself was huge and had every amenity we could want, including a coffee bar and a very nice remote-controlled stereo. The bed was of course comfortable and the views from the multiple windows were outstanding.

The bathroom impressed me. Beautiful vanities, a large bath, the plushest towels and bathrobes, and anything you could need to pamper yourself are available. There were even makeup removing pads and bath salts!

Shared Spaces

The luxurious accommodations don’t stop there. Leading Italian designers, such as Antonio Citterio and Emilio Nanni, designed shared living spaces that accentuated the castle experience. The spaces include a stunning grand entrance, reading nooks, and several salons.

Two rooms have been converted into an intimate art gallery, with pieces revolving monthly. They are also available for purchase. I personally loved the pieces displayed during my visit.

My favourite spot was the French billiards room. Besides the game, there were a selection of whiskies, rums, and other digestifs available for winding down after a day of wine tasting.

Breakfast

Breakfast takes place in a lovely dining area. The traditional French breakfast includes freshly baked baguette, croissants, pains au chocolat, butter, jam, juices, coffee, tea. Our morning was extra special when we were surprised with beautiful chocolate cakes (and a candle!) to celebrate my boyfriend’s birthday. I thought it was incredibly thoughtful and kind!

Cellar Visit

Château de Chassagne-Montrachet is not only luxury accommodations. At the heart of this gorgeous property is top-notch winemaking, with an increasing emphasis on biodynamic vineyard management. Au Pied du Mont Chauve is their Domaine here, an homage to the nickname given to the local mountain.

Underneath the Château are the original cellars, restored and with a capacity of 1000 barrels. This is the most colourful wine cellar I have ever visited! The colours are not just decorative, they are in fact practical. Each year, new barrels are given a distinct colour banding, making it easy to spot the age of each barrique. There are also  Austrian foudres alongside the traditional barriques.

A brand new winery was installed with the cuverie on full display in the entrance of the visitor center. An impressive site!

Tastings

Tastings took place in the state-of-the-art tasting room, reminiscent of what you would find in Napa Valley. Don’t just expect to sip some glasses without discussion: we were presented with highly detailed maps of all the climats (the Burgundian term for parcels) as well as soil samples to explain the unique wines of this region. It was fascinating and our guide was incredibly knowledgeable.

As I mentioned earlier, these wines are produced under the Domaine Au Pied du Mont Chauve. The vineyards are mainly in the Côte de Beaune: Chassagne-Montrachet, including six Premiers Crus; Puligny-Montrachet, including two Premiers Crus; and Saint-Aubin, including three Premiers Crus. I had the opportunity to try five wines.

Au Pied du Mont Chauve Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Pitangerets Blanc 2018

Light and buttery, with aromas of green apple, lemon zest, and almond. Not overly oaky and relatively easy to drink. It has a bright minerality that would work well with shellfish.

Au Pied du Mont Chauve Chassagne-Montrachet En Pimont Blanc 2021

2021 was a difficult and cool year for French winemakers and you can definitely tell with this vintage. Beyond butter, it was flintier than the first wine and more mineral. Characteristic notes of green apple, lemon, and flowery honey seep through. This one will open after a few more years of ageing.

Au Pied du Mont Chauve Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Chaumées Blanc 2020

This was my favourite of the tasting. Bolder, more complex, it is more along the lines of whites that I like to drink and it is a classic expression of Les Chaumées’ terroir. Buttery with green apple, white peach, citrus (lemon, grapefruit), white flowers. Refreshing minerality without being too harsh. Great balance. While it is drinkable now, I imagine it will age quite nicely. It would definitely pair with a lot of dishes too.

Au Pied du Mont Chauve Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Pitangerets Rouge 2020

I rarely ever drink reds from this particular region, so it was interesting to try this one. It is fruit-forward and fresh with aromas of currants, cherries, and raspberries. The tannins are discreet and there is some chalky minerality and spice. Although it’s not quite a style that I normally drink, it was a good experience.

Au Pied du Mont Chauve Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge 2018

This is another wine I do not usually drink, so it is like a learning experience for me. Bolder than the other red, this one has aromas of black fruits and black pepper. Light tannins and acidity that reminds me of Italian reds.

Overall Thoughts

Overall, a visit to Château de Chassagne-Montrachet is a must if you are a fan of exquisite white Burgundies. From magazine-worthy accommodations to an informative tasting, they truly made us feel like royalty. The friendly staff and their attention to detail (such as the birthday!) made our stay even extra special. Bonus: the Château is only a short walk from the Grand Cru vineyards too! Highly recommend.