Canard-Duchêne is an iconic champagne house located in the Montagne de Reims. Their legacy dates back to 1868 and has continued to gain recognition in the world of champagne. They were one of the first houses to embrace new technologies and they are also champions of the environment. I had the opportunity to enjoy a Champagne Canard-Duchêne private visit and tasting. Read all about it here!
Menu
Introduction
The Visit
The Tasting
Conclusion
Introduction
Champagne Canard-Duchêne, located in the village of Ludes, started as a love story. Victor Canard, a cooper (barrel-maker) and Léonie Duchêne (the daughter of a winegrower/winemaker) fell in love, married, and decided to make champagne together. They combined their expert skills of grape growing and tasting to create fine wines that quickly became a hit in Europe. It is interesting to note that Leonie was able to work in the industry when the role of women in business was almost non-existent!
A little over two decades after its founding, Victor and Léonie’s son, Edmond, brought international fame to the Champagne House. He was able to secure a prestigious contract as an official supplier to the Court of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia. Due to this, the Maison incorporated the Russian Imperial coat of arms as part of its logo.
Champagne Canard-Duchêne also has a history of embracing innovative wine-making techniques. For instance, they were among the first to use mechanized grape presses, which allowed for more precise and controlled pressing of grapes. Their innovative approach has helped them stand out in the industry.
Today, Champagne Canard-Duchêne incorporates sustainable practices in its champagne production, including aiming for sustainable certification. They use fully recyclable cardboard, participate in reforestation, and have started keeping beehives, just to name a few initiatives.
Canard-Duchêne was associated with Veuve Clicquot and LVMH Group. It is now part of the independent Champagne group Thiénot, as of October 2003.
The Visit
Unlike many large Maisons, Champagne Canard-Duchêne has stayed in the countryside, in the charming village of Ludes. Their vines are visible from the grounds of their world class estate. The location itself is interesting because it is just at the edge of the forest of the Montagnes de Reims. Pinot Noir is the dominant grape variety here.
Ties to the Past
The focus of my visit was the incredible cellars. Hand-cut in the 19th century, they extend over 6 kilometers and are 4 levels, between 12 and 38 meters deep. In addition to housing champagne, it is home to over a century and a half of history, artfully displayed in the cellars’ alcoves.
The site of Champagne Canard-Duchêne was at one point a château constructed for François Abelé (from Champagne François Abelé). He built a magnificent castle on the property, dug out the cellars, and constructed a neo-roman chapel. Canard-Duchêne later bought the property. It fell to ruin due the two World Wars and had to be demolished in the 1950s. The original staircase leading up to the old castle still remains, as well as “wells” carved in the ceiling, once used to lift bottles above-ground.
Most of the château’s chapel was saved. The magnificent Simon-Marq stained glass windows are on display throughout the cellars. Building material, such as stone, was reused in the construction of nearby village churches. The original statues are now in the village church of Ludes. The bell was given to an oratory.
The stained glass displays are beautifully presented! Even underground, they give the impression of light and daytime.
Into the Cellars
It takes 130 steps to descend into the cellars. And they are a chilly 10°C! I mentioned earlier that there are several different levels. The first level is all about the story of Champagne Canard-Duchêne, an ode to its history, the land, the family, the land, the vineyard parcels… as well as eye-catching collaborations with artists. Vincent Rahir’s installations in particular really impressed me.
There are many notable alcoves, including a family “tree” using the roots of a grapevine, a room dedicated to the longest-working employees, and another full of sabres! Napoleon’s hussars celebrated their victories by opening bottles of champagne with the flat of their sabre. Champagne Canard-Duchêne adopted a sabre in its coat of arms and holds trainings and events throughout France for this joyous tradition!
I am not posting too many photos, as not to spoil the enchantment during your visit!
Another interesting tidbit: a fifth level of the cellers was discovered by accident. However, it is not accessible as there are no stairs to get there, only a hole. This inspired the Cellar Master, Laurent Fédou. In celebration of the Maison’s 150th anniversary, he placed 150 bottles in this new level to age in this spectacular environment.
To the Oenothèque
Descending deeper into the cellars, the other levels are more functional than decorative. Bottles of bubbly line the walls everywhere I looked, silently ageing away. In fact, millions of bottles are stored here.
The serenity of cellars are very calming compared to the hustle and bustle above-ground. It is clear why these cellars were used as a hospital during the World Wars.
I had the opportunity to visit the oenothèque, or wine library. This is where the oldest and rarest bottles are stored. There is a decent selection from the 80s and 90s. The oldest bottles I spotted were from 1952. I think it is interesting how the labels have changed over time. The champagnes are also still drinkable, but taste quite different than the champagnes you would normally drink! They are sampled from time to time in order to better understand the Maison’s blends.
The Tasting
Of course, no Champagne House visit is complete without a tasting! I am quite familiar with Champagne Canard-Duchêne Brut, as it is on my rotation for when we have guests over. My visit was a great opportunity to try their Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs.
Champagne Canard-Duchêne launched their exceptional Charles VII range in homage to the royal history of the Champagne region. Within uniquely shaped bottles, the blends are made with a majority of Grands and Premiers Crus.
Charles VII Blanc de Blancs
100% Chardonnay, 5g/L, and 30% reserve wines. An elegant Blanc de Blancs that balances crisp minerality with rounder aromas of lychee and fresh white fruits. Notes of pastry. Overall pleasant to drink and would pair perfectly with oysters.
Charles VII Blanc de Noirs
100% Pinot Noir, 7g/L, 50% reserve wines. I don’t know if it is because of the Maison’s history with Pinot Noir, but this Champagne is where the Maison really shines! A gourmande bubbly with a beautiful golden hue and deliciously complex aromas of juicy cherry, confit red fruits, and pastries. It is powerful enough to be enjoyed alongside a meal, even red meat. Really fantastic champagne — they have found a new fan!
Conclusion
Overall, I had a wonderful visit to Champagne Canard-Duchêne and highly recommend it. This Maison has such a rich history and the cellars are really beautifully presented. I felt completely immersed in the its universe. Our guide tailored the experience for my group (industry professionals), so we skipped the basics about the region and production that are normally part of the tour for the general public. I personally appreciated that — instead, we focused on the unique points of the Maison.
Plus, as much as I love my city, it is such a breath of fresh air to visit a Champagne House in the countryside, surrounded by vines! There is something magical about sipping exceptional bubbly with a view of the vineyards. Their garden-with-a-view is magnificent and their indoor seating is also quite comfortable. Overall, amazing.
Thank you to Ladies Wine Champagne and Florence for this experience!