Wine production in South Africa is ooooold — tracing back to the 17th century! The end of apartheid rejuvenated the industry and it is experiencing a spectacular renaissance. With its incredibly varied terroirs and climate, renowned winemakers around the world are flocking to South Africa. Considered as the bridge between Old and New World, these wines have won the hearts and palates of critics. Recently, one of the most celebrated South African wineries invited me for a visit. I am very excited to share my VIP Taaibosch private visit in this article.
Menu
Introduction
Visiting the Vineyards
Visiting the Cellars
The Tasting
Introduction
The Taaibosch Story
The story begins several decades ago. At the time, the land belonged to Cordoba, an award-winning estate. But the promise of this dynasty came to a halt with the end of apartheid. When South African wines were allowed to re-enter the global market, Cordoba came under hot water for its name. It happens to be the same as a Spanish geographical indication for Vino de la Tierra wines, located in the region of Andalusia. Of course, the winery couldn’t win against the classification system. So, instead of changing its name, the owner stubbornly stopped producing its celebrated wines.
But 2017 marked an event that shook up the wine world. The legendary Cordoba estate in South Africa, left to rot for 20 years, was bought by the Oddo family group. And backed by the famed Rothschilds. They renamed the estate Taaibosch, Afrikaans for the tough native bushes that grow on the Stellenbosch mountains. Continuing commendable attention to terroir, their wines have become international favourites.
The Taaibosch Winery Estate is situated on the slopes of the Heldeberg Mountain Range: the highest in the country. Located between Somerset West and Stellenbosch, these 50 ha of vines have the most spectacular views over False and Table Bays in the Cape Peninsula. The property’s unusually varied soils and altitudes mean meticulous site selection for each grape variety planted here. The wines follow the French philosophy of terroir, using the best fruit and the latest wine-making techniques.
Taaibosch Crescendo
Head winemaker Schalk-Willem Joubert and his team make classical, Bordeaux-style wine with minimal intervention. In fact, they make only one cuvée: Crescendo. It has quickly become the country’s most famous wine in recent years. And it is considered by top wine critics to be South Africa’s rival to Saint-Emilion’s famous “Cheval Blanc”.
The inaugural 2018 release was an international success, receiving high marks from critics and considered must-haves worldwide. Their latest vintage, 2019, has received its reviews and is considered EVEN BETTER than its predecessor!
Visiting the Vineyards
The Vineyards
Visits to the Taaibosch Wine Estate are as exclusive as the wine itself. It is not open to the public and there isn’t any signage. So this is a particularly special, exclusive experience. After a delicious cappuccino, my Taaibosch private visit started at the roots, so to speak. Directly to the mountainous vineyards.
Our guide, the marketing manager of the estate, deftly navigated the rugged paths with his four-wheel drive. The vineyards are mostly westerly facing. Cabernet Sauvignon is planted in the lower reaches, about 250 metres above sea level. Cabernet Franc is planted higher up on the steeper slopes. The estate also grows Merlot.
The soil has the distinct red colour associated with the region. The result of eroding Table Mountain sandstone and Cape Granite, it is rich in kaolinite, iron and aluminum oxides. This soil has an outstanding capacity for holding water and nutrients. Taaibosch, is different from its neighbours because it also sits on a lens of Malmesbury shale — rich in fertilizing matter.
The altitude and Antarctic currents of the Atlantic ocean create natural cooling during the summer months. This allows for slow, even ripening of the grapes. The sea breezes also protect the health of the vines throughout the year.
Speaking about protecting, the estate is planting new vines. Because they are committed to minimal intervention, they rigorously implement organic principles in their viticultural and oenological practices. Straw, for example, is used to protect the new vines. It has so many benefits. First, it works well against desiccating winds. It also provides a micro climate that helps reduce evapotranspiration. And it reduces vineyard labour for vine training.
The View
Eventually, we reached the top of the vineyards, where absolutely breathtaking views awaited us. Clear days, like during the visit, offer unobstructed, panoramic views of Cape Point, Table Mountain, Robben Island, and the patchwork of Stellenbosch vineyards. Many photos were taken at this moment, as to be expected!
The Rest of the Property
The Wine Estate also features several interesting properties like luxury guest houses. Dating back to 1838, a lovingly restored farmhouse — The Manor House — is used for special events and group visits. Old gnarled oak trees dot the property. There are hiking trails around the mountains. And, because of the organic vineyard management, there is lots of wildlife. South African guinea fowl are everywhere!
Visiting the Cellars
The Taaibosch private visit then moved to the stunning facilities. State-of-the-art, brand new, sparkling. In fact, everything was newly installed just a year or two prior to the visit. Very impressive to behold! Taaibosch’s grapes are hand-picked. Once transported to the cellar, they are gently transferred to both stainless steel and cement vessels for fermentation, by means of gravity.
In fact, the whole cellar system is based on gravitational flow. This allows for the gentlest handling of not only the grapes, but the primary juices too.
The wine-making process starts with a period of cold soaking, providing a rich extraction of colour, aromas, and bright flavour. Once fermentation concludes, extended maceration follows, providing the wine with soft texture, increased colour intensity, and complexity.
The wine is then matured in a combination of 225 L oak barrels, 9000 L Foudres, and 4500 L cement tanks for a period of three years. The different vessels impart different elements to the wine, from subtle wood influence to fruity characters.
The Tasting
Background
Behind the barrels, we ended the visit with a tasting of Taaibosch Crescendo 2019. Decanted a couple of hours earlier, it was served with Tête de Moine AOP cheese from France and absolutely decadent Jamón ibérico flown in specially from Spain.
This wine is sublime and completely worthy of all its accolades. It is a classic Bordeaux blend of 65% Cabernet Franc, 26% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. 2019 was a difficult year for South African wine. Two previous years of drought plus a late winter (wet+cold season) meant that the team had to be particularly adept with their vineyard management. They succeeded.
Review
The resulting wine is complex, layered, and elegant. Oh aromas are fantastic. The minerality is enticing. I got a bit of graphite and I could smell the sea breeze. There’s a hint of earthiness, mixed with fresh herbs. Then I get a hit of ripe blackberry and juicy black cherries. The mouth is perfectly balanced, surprisingly delicate, with fine tannins. This exceptional wine is delicious by itself, but can also work wonderfully alongside game meat. I would love to have this with venison.
Overall, Taaibosch is a must-try South African Wine Estate. Their Crescendo is a revelation, undeniably one of my favourite wines. It even blew away my French boyfriend, an avid Burgundy fan. I am definitely looking forward to future releases from this estate!
As a parting gift, I was gifted a bottle of Le Chant du Coq 2019. A brand new venture by the Taaibosch team, I will be one of the first in the world to try this new release! It is a Bordeaux blend with a twist: Helderberg Syrah and Sangiovese! I am very excited to try this. Stay tuned!
Indeed, a big Thank You to Lorraine and Mark for this Taaibosch private visit, an unforgettable experience.