I had the most amazing dinner in Angoulême yesterday thanks to Le Comptoir de Brice. I’m exploring the region and this was my first time in town. Recommended by Gault & Millau, this is an innovative restaurant in the old town headed by Chef Brice Javerzac. He brings his 15+ years of experience working in Michelin starred restaurants to this welcoming spot.
The concept is to share his love of cooking through his comptoir, or counter in English. Indeed, there is seating at a counter overlooking the lively open kitchen. They also have a lovely wine list, mostly Bordeaux wines, but also featuring local Charantais gems. I was particularly interested in these, as this area is more known for Cognac than wine.
Anyways, a new menu was just released a few days ago in time for spring and WOW you need to try it.
To start the evening, I was presented with fish rillettes and very nice bread.
My entrée was mind-blowingly delicious: shrimp crudo, with vanilla infused sweet potato, and coriander-coconut milk. It was served with a crispy rice chip and an addictive spicy sorbet. it was the perfect marriage of flavours and textures. I honestly want to go back specifically for this dish and I think I can say it was my favourite dish I have had in a long while!
My main dish was the pêche du jour (catch of the day) with shellfish fregolasotto and pink curry emulsion. It was hearty and comforting. The portion size was perfect and the shellfish was generous. I don’t remember exactly what fish it was, but I believe it was pollock.
The dessert was extra special: I watched the Chef Pâtissier create it in front of me! The blood orange en trompe l’œil was magnificent. Besides being a beautiful dish (it looked like an orange!), it was surprisingly light and refreshing. It was the perfect end to such a fantastic meal. Essentially, it was chocolate covering a ganache with blood orange confit in the middle.
For wine, I tried something local. While Charente is famous for Cognac, its proximity to Bordeaux alludes to fine quality wines. I followed the restaurant’s recommendation and ordered VDP Château Haut Grelot cuvée Emma (nature). 100% Merlot, it is a rich and full-bodied with delicious dark fruit and caramel aromas. It actually won a gold medal during General Agricole Paris 2020. It was elegant and delicious.
Overall, Le Comptoir de Brice is a gem. I highly recommend visiting of you are in the area!
