White asparagus: the vegetable of kings, edible ivory, white gold.
Asparagus is a springtime vegetable, known for its distinct flavour, diuretic properties, and its purported function as an aphrodisiac. It has been documented back to the Ancient Egyptian times, and was enjoyed throughout ancient Syria, Spain, Greece, and the Roman Empire. Eventually, French monasteries began cultivating asparagus in the 1400s, and it spread throughout the rest of Europe. It was then brought to North America as early as the 1600s by Dutch and British settlers.
Around the same time, France was experimenting with growing techniques and developed its famous white asparagus. White asparagus is essentially the same plant as the original green one — except for how it is grown! Certain varieties are grown underground, under piles of dirt called hillings. This inhibits the shoots’ production of chlorophyll so that they don’t turn green. It is believe that this makes the asparagus less bitter and more tender. This technique soon spread to Germany and other parts of Europe and still remains very popular to this day!
As soon as spring hits in France, you will find white asparagus just about anywhere: farmers’ markets, restaurant menus, grocery stores, local épiceries, and even corner stores. It might actually be difficult to find the green ones! They tend to be medium or thick in girth, with a thick, stringy skin that needs to be peeled (unlike green asparagus). Because they are peeled, they tend to steam or boil fairly quickly. When prepared correctly, they are sweet and just about melt in your mouth. They are truly delightful!
Often enjoyed with Hollandaise and cured proteins, I thought I would share my recipe for this perfect brunch dish. It seems impressive, but it is fairly easy to whip up, and only takes about 10-15 minutes, tops! My recipe makes enough for two people — note that Hollandaise should not be reheated, so it is best not to have leftovers. Enjoy it with a refreshingly crisp glass of Veuve Clicquot Brut Carte Jaune!
I find that the peach/apricot/pear flavours of this particular Champagne work really well with the lemony butteriness of the sauce and brings out the sweetness of the asparagus. Veuve and smoked salmon (my protein of choice) is a classic pairing in general, making it the perfect brunch beverage.
INGREDIENTS
White asparagus, peeled
65g butter, melted
2 egg yolks
1/2 lemon
Sprinkle of salt
Smoked salmon (or other cured protein of choice)
Fresh herbs for garnish (I used dill, as that’s what my smoked salmon was prepared with)
INSTRUCTIONS
- Put a pan on medium heat. Add asparagus in a single layer and add enough water to submerge halfway. Cover with lid. Once water boils, let cook for 5-8 minutes. Make sure that all water does not evaporate, otherwise you will burn asparagus.
- In the meantime, prepare a bain marie. If you do not have one, fill a large heatproof bowl with boiling water and place a smaller heatproof bowl inside. Add yolks and lemon juice to smaller bowl and whisk until there is no more froth/bubbles and the mixture is noticeably thicker.
- Remove inner bowl from from bain marie. Add salt and slowly pour in butter, little by little, while whisking mixture. It should be nice and thick at this point and your asparagus should be ready at the same time.
- Remove asparagus from pan and plate. Pour hollandaise on top and place protein. Garnish with fresh herbs. Enjoy with a glass of Champagne!