Introduction
“For most inhabitants of (post)modern Western societies, food has long ceased to be merely about sustenance and nutrition. It is packed with social, cultural, and symbolic meanings. Every mouthful, every meal, can tell us something about our selves, and about our place in the world.”
(Bell and Valentine, 1997)
Terroir is an important concept in France that truly shapes the way in which French people think and interact with food.
In fact, terroir is so important that it has permeated beyond simply buying and eating food — it has shaped the French identity, extending into all levels of culture and daily life. Terroir has affected the social structure of the French people, through the concept of commensality. And, perhaps most importantly, it has united the country together in a sort of national kinship.
Restaurants and food sites such as markets, bodegas, and épiceries have capitalized on this. They have become more than just places where food is exchanged for money. They are community hubs where like minded individuals can share their appreciation for products of particular regions of France or elsewhere. Customers feel a sense of we-ness with shop employees as they bond over wines, charcuterie items, baked goods, and more.
There is a particular shop in Reims, called Au Bon Manger. It is a good example of these aforementioned ideas. It is more than just an épicerie with a great selection of wines and charcuterie. It is its own micro community, a home away from home. It is akin to visiting your favourite auntie and uncle, complete with top notch food and drinks. Reims’ hidden gem.
In this paper, I conducted independent observational research of this shop, as well as studied course readings and independent text-based research, in order to clearly demonstrate that a well-liked local épicerie exemplifies how French appreciation for terroir is linked to national kinship.
Literature Review
In France, it is a belief that food and drink possess unique tastes depending on where they are from. Stemming from agrarian roots, this concept of terroir shapes how the French express people’s relationship to the land, be it sensual, practical, or habitual. Soil and roots are at the heart of French cuisine and beverages. They consider this connection to be essential and have even categorized locations based on their unique flavour characteristics, giving those places gastronomic renown. Because of this, the French are willing to pay a higher price for good food, as they believe that local tastes, as well as food produced on a smaller scale, are superior (Trubek 2008).
Food has a pervasive role in human life. After breathing, eating is the most essential human activity. It has a unique social aspect and has been shown to solidify group membership (Mintz and Du Bois 2002). A fundamental assumption of the French’s perception of food is that its consumption needs to be a shared experience that incorporates sensory analysis and sensory pleasure (Trubek 2008). Commensality, or the act of eating and sharing food together, is an important part of the human experience as it can strengthen bonds and create unity. These social bonds reflect a sort of kinship that extends outside of immediate family. They reflect cultural values and a sense of social solidarity or “we-ness”, the feeling of belonging within a group of people (Zhen 2019).
The French continue to take this a step further. National cuisines are considered as part of the French identity, creating and reinforcing a community through food (Zhen, 2019). National cuisines include everyday foods such as breads, saucissons, and cheeses. These seemingly mundane foods act as symbols and elements that discreetly remind the French of who they are, further constructing and maintaining a sense of national identity. Localised cuisine can be viewed as a way to express local identity and everyday discourse (Billig 1995). The saying “you are what you eat” is taken seriously — as well as where and why — directly linking the relationship between self-and-place identity with consumption (Bell and Valentine, 1997).
French businesses understand all this. Whether a name brand or an épicerie, these companies know that their products create attachment and loyalty towards a brand. By celebrating local and small scale producers, companies add an extra layer of trust through responsible commitment for terroir regions and the employment areas that they represent, and toward consumers by offering quality products that consistently exceed their expectations. This can create a positive impact on customers, ensuring loyalty and product purchases. In short, businesses that actively support the concept of terroir establish an important link between retailers and customers that can lead to profitable results (Lacœuilhe, Louis and Lombart, 2017).
Methodology
Local épicerie, Au Bon Manger, was studied over the course of two months, between mid-October to mid-December of this year. I have been a regular customer of this establishment since moving to Reims, and have been recording notes after each visit for personal use (blogging), as well as photos. I first discovered this shop while exploring the area, which is part of my neighbourhood. Before visiting in person, I tried to learn more about the shop and its offerings through their website, social media (Facebook and Instagram), as well as review sites, such as TripAdvisor.
I typically drop in every two weeks, with visits ranging between 30 minutes to an hour or more. I have interacted with the two shop owners every time I have stopped by. Due to Covid, I generally avoid entering when the shop is busy, but there had been a few occasions where I had to go inside when it was. During those times, I was able to observe interactions with other customers. Overall, I have spent over six hours inside this store, combined over the course of my multiple visits.
Observations
Nestled in between an Italian bodega and a home services office, the bold, unmistakable storefront of Au Bon Manger welcomes visitors with all sorts of eye candy. A bright royal blue exterior surrounds large windows with a view of the wares inside. When weather permits, wooden tables with cheerful aquamarine chairs are set up outside under a blue awning.
From the street, passersby can glimpse a cozy, warmly lit store, with a multitude of wine bottles stacked in shelves along the left of the shop, a deli counter on the right, and a few tables in the middle. There are usually people sitting at the tables, sharing a bottle or two of wine, accompanied by carefully assembled plates of charcuterie. While the tables are separated, different parties will still interact, giving it a communal feel. Sometimes, one of the shop’s owners will be sitting with them, explaining the products. Other times, they will be standing and helping customers with their wine selection or food purchases.
Stepping inside the store, you are immediately greeted by a cheerful employee, regardless if the store is busy or not. It is usually either Aline or her husband Eric, the co-owners of the shop. Both hailing from Paris, they left completely different professions before establishing their épicerie. Aline worked for a Japanese fashion designer, while Eric made radio programs for the national radio station France Musique. Their passion for wine and gastronomy is contagious and spreads to anyone who steps inside.
They specialize in local, biodynamic, and natural wines and champagnes that are produced by wineries that also grow their own grapes. Many of these wines are difficult to find, even within France. The quantities are limited, giving the wines an element of exclusivity and excitement. Aline and Eric have met all the producers of the wines they carry. They know the stories behind the wineries and the owners, everything about the terroir, the taste, the process of making the wines. Occasionally, the winery owners themselves can be found enjoying an afternoon or evening at a table.
Ask any of the employees for a pairing, and they can tell you the exact dish (or vice versa) that would perfectly bring out the flavours of the wine. No pairing? No problem — a cheese counter has a selection of a couple dozen different French fromages, many of them unique to various regions of France. Another counter has a selection of smoked fish from famed Maison Barthouil and all sorts of cured meats, saucissons, terrines, and pâtés from local charcuterie meat producers. Canned goods like fish, pickled vegetables, mustards, sauces, and fruit preserves can be found on shelves. If you are lucky, you can even score a set of Gabriel-Glas wine glasses — the very same ones that are used to serve the wine in store. They also sell custom-made shirts with their logo, as a way to combat the dip in customers during the pandemic.
I discovered this fantastic shop when I first moved to Reims a few months ago. Living down the street, I would often walk by it on my way to the boulangerie and other shops that I would buy my groceries from. Peering into the windows, the shop was always bustling with people. What stood out to me in particular was that everyone always had a smile and there was always laughter.
Finally, after a couple of weeks, I stepped inside the shop. I was looking for a champagne to accompany a creamy mushroom pasta that I was planning on making for dinner that day, using some foraged mushrooms that I found at a local farmers’ market. I was warmly welcomed by Eric. He inquired how he could assist me and we discussed the dish that I had in mind. He informed me that he had the perfect champagne to pair with my meal. I was immediately taken by his excitement for his suggestions. It was not the average run-of-the mill “this champagne has notes of X” that I would normally hear in Canadian wine stores. Eric launched into a full history of each winery, telling me all about the winemaker, the grapes, the soil, the climate, the region of France. He did this for each of the wines he recommended, even showing me photos of the people and places he was describing on his phone. I only went in with the intention of purchasing one bottle. I brought home three.
This experience has carried over to every other time I have visited Au Bon Manger. Besides wines, they have proudly introduced me to the Maison Barthouil products that they stock, including all sorts of smoked fish and blinis. They explained to me the whole smoking process of that company, how it is a traditional method from Scandinavia, and how they are the only company in France that still does this the old fashioned way. They also introduced me to La Guildive, another French fish company that specializes in canned delicacies such as razor clams, squid, sea urchin, anchovies, and lots of different sardine flavours. Through this, they explained to me how to enjoy these different fishes by way of dishes from the South of France. They also walked me through their different cheeses, explaining what region of France they are from, how they are made, and what they taste like. They even explained to me how to make Thai saucisson! When they found out that I did not have any wine glasses with me in France, they offered me a pair of glasses from their own supply.
Their care and attention for their products goes beyond just selling. They recognize repeat customers and will always ask how they enjoyed their purchase. They remember any personal stories that customers tell them, such as how I am a Canadian student here, studying wine and gastronomy marketing. We often exchange pictures of our meal pairings and they are always interested in feedback about their offerings. They get to know the preferences of their clients and not only assist with purchases, but also try and educate.
There are several other similar shops in the area and Au Bon Manger is certainly not the least expensive, yet it has such a strong and supportive following.
In my observations, I noticed that all of the things that I have described above have also been reflected on other customers. No matter how many people are inside the shop (the limit is 3 customers due to Covid restrictions), everyone gets the same level of care and attention.
Reviews on social media also describe similar experiences to mine. Positive review over positive review describes not just the quality selection in the shop, but also the passion and knowledge of the owners. Staff actively update their Instagram and Facebook with new wine releases, charcuterie options, and behind-the-scenes looks at winery visits. They also occasionally post features about the people behind the products they sell, especially when they visit the épicerie in person. Fans and customers usually tag the shop in their posts. These are usually shared via Instagram stories. The shop’s staff are fairly active on social media and like to interact with their audience. They reply to inquiries and comments, and will even mention posts if they recognize the customers in store.
The official website is updated regularly. It currently features Aline’s limited edition boxes, limited edition merchandise, and a bio about her. However, it usually has more information about the shop and the products offered.
Their audience extends past Reims, including around France, Germany, England, and other places in Europe, Japan, and even North America. They now offer shipping for specialty wine boxes around the globe.
Discussion
Now, linking the observations to the literature. It is clear that this type of shop is able to exist in the first place because of the concept and appreciation of terroir. French people are willing to leave big box grocery chains in favour of small boutiques like this. They believe that local tastes, as well as food produced on a smaller scale, are superior and are willing to pay a higher price for perceived high quality food. The French would go out of their way for Maison Barthouil and La Guildive products because they are produced on a small scale, where production processes are transparent, and the origins of the products are known. Customers can learn information such as the exact location of a winery, and how the wines might differ from another area, even if they are both the same kind of wine. In a shop like this, customers have a much closer link to food producers than they would at a grocery store: the shop owners know the producers personally and can answer any questions that customers might have. They can even show customers photos of the actual people behind the food. Occasionally, the shop owners can even introduce the producers to clients in person, when they are visiting the store.
In my observations, the shop owners often refer to the soil, climate, and location from which products were produced. It is not only something that they are interested in, but they expect their customers — mostly other French people, but occasionally French gastronomy loverts — to be equally as interested in. This agrees with the idea that the French value their relationship to the land and that soil and roots are at the heart of their cuisine and beverages. It is clear that they believe that this connection is essential.
This shop exemplifies the idea in the literature that food consumption needs to be a shared experience that incorporates sensory analysis and sensory pleasure. Even though the “restaurant” tables are individually spaced out, they still act as a communal hub, as people at different tables will talk to each other and share their wining and dining experience with those around them. It is commensality taken to another level. It might appear like they are eating and sharing food together with strangers, but they are in fact strengthening bonds and creating unity, like at a family gathering.
Extending beyond this, simply the act of discussing and learning about products with the shop staff is another good example of this communal feeling. Customers are sharing the food experience with experts and like minded individuals, whether they eat in-store or at home. It can be argued that even eating at home is like a long-distance version of commensality.
As mentioned earlier, these social bonds reflect cultural values and a sense of social solidarity or “we-ness”, the feeling of belonging within a group of people. That is, the group of people who appreciate Au Bon Manger; the group of people who appreciate French, biodynamic wines; the group of people who appreciate good, high quality French food; people who appreciate the French identity, particularly through wine and gastronomy. This is kinship, a “foodie” and “national identity” kind of family. The personal touch of the shop owners, such as getting to know repeat customers well, also adds to the feeling of kinship or family.
Even though not all customers are French, they still share this same bond of kinship. The bond over a love of French food and drinks, as well as small local producers. They too value what “actual” French people value: terroir.
It is interesting to note that this bond extends beyond the traditional sense and now spills into the digital sphere. Kinship has expanded more than ever and it is easier for these extended “family members” to keep in contact, share ideas and experiences, and further strengthen bonds. It is clear to see over the shop’s social media channels that there is a supportive community abroad that regularly engages with and consumes their content — digital commensality.
I say this as the literature had mentioned that national cuisines are considered as part of the French identity. It is clear that the staff and the patrons are both equally proud that the food and drinks being offered are French. Something as seemingly mundane as wine and cheese is truly, inherently French, and by buying and consuming these items, it reminds the French of who they are. A good quality, locally made champagne is a symbol of the region, helping the local Remoise express their local identity, which in turn extends to maintaining a sense of national identity: Champagne is French.
Au Bon Manger is a business that understands all this. They are passionate about their products and they recognize that their customers are too. They built a brand around sharing food, whether it is in the physical sense or emotional. They purposely focus on carrying and promoting local and small scale producers. They go out of their way to show to their customers that they are committed to terroir regions. They can explain the differences between products from Jura and Bordeaux and Vallée de la Loire. They care about the people employed in those areas and they show it by getting to know those people personally. As a customer, it is reassuring to know that this business truly cares about what it sells, as well as the people producing these gastronomic delights. It creates a positive impact on customers by building trust in the company. Customers can expect high quality French goods that consistently exceed thor expectations. This ensures their loyalty and makes them want to keep coming back.
Limitations
The findings of this essay are purely based on personal observations by me, and highly influenced by personal experience and taste. In the future, it would be interesting to conduct further fieldwork with less personal bias, such as conducting customer surveys online and in store. Also, because of the pandemic, it is possible that clientele patterns differ from the usual: it is possible that the customers observed in store are “die hard” fans, so to speak, which the store owners know well. At this time, people are less willing to visit new places in person, for health reasons. This might skew the service I had perceived.
Conclusion
Au Bon Manger was an interesting case study as it exemplified how French appreciation for terroir is linked to national kinship.
This small épicerie promotes the concept of terroir through the products it carries, including wines and Champagnes, cheeses, fish, and charcuterie staples from local or otherwise small producers. The shop owners know everything about the products that they sell, from how they are made to the ground where they are grown from. Just as importantly, they also know the people who produce the food personally. By being able to relate all this, customers are able to bond with staff as well as other customers over their love and appreciation for these terroir products. This appreciation is tied to the French identity, of French nationalism. This in turn creates a community, a sense of unity, a sense of kinship.
In the future, it would be interesting to compare this theme pre and post Covid pandemic. During the pandemic, there has been a move to support local. This perhaps might tighten the sense of kinship within the country, but might actually push away outsiders from other countries.
References
Bell, D. and Valentine, G., 1997. Consuming Geographies. London: Routledge.
Billig, M., 1995. Banal Nationalism. London: Sage.
Lacœuilhe, J., Louis, D. and Lombart, C., 2017. Impacts of product, store and retailer perceptions on consumers’ relationship to terroir store brand. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 39, pp.43-53.
Mintz, S.W. and Du Bois, C.M., (2002). The anthropology of food and eating. Annual review of anthropology, 31(1), pp.99-119.
Trubek, A.B. (2009) The taste of place: a cultural journey into terroir. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.
Zhen, W. (2019) Food studies: a hands-on guide. New York: Bloomsbury Academic.