Just in time for the rentrée (back to school/work) and vendanges (grape harvest) here in France, let me introduce you to a project that is shaking up the wine world. Epistémê is a passionate collaboration between trailblazing winemaker Armand Heitz and the BSB’s School of Wine & Spirits Business. More than simply a wine, Epistémê questions the Old World’s strict wine codes and contemplates the future of the industry. There are only 300 bottles of this wine and I have the joy of trying one! Read all about the project and my tasting notes below.
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Introduction: About the Epistémê Project
BSB’s School of Wine & Spirits Business
Who is Armand Heitz
Epistémê 2023
Overall Thoughts
Introduction: About the Epistémê Project
The word, Epistémê, originates from ancient Greek, where it broadly means “knowledge” or “understanding.” More recently, the French historian and philosopher Michel Foucault used this term to refer to the underlying framework of knowledge that defines how we think and understand within a particular historical period.
In today’s historical period, we typically accept the sets of rules governing different wine regions. France in particular has very strict rules that define its AOCs. These rules dictate everything from the permitted grape varieties to vineyard practices, maximum yields, and ageing requirements. The goal is to preserve the unique terroir and quality of regional wines, maintaining their traditional character and reputation.
But as issues such as climate change start to disrupt grape-growing and wine-making, new generations of winemakers are starting to question these rules as they look to the future of the industry.
Epistémê is a thought-provoking project meant to challenge the status-quo of the contemporary wine world, while transmitting the know-how of an esteemed winemaker to a student. This is a collaboration between the BSB’s School of Wine and Spirits Business with their partner winemaker, Armand Heitz. Each year, a student has the opportunity to create a special cuvée related to this philosophy. They are involved in all steps of the process. Including the choice of grape variety, harvesting, cellar work, bottling, and, finally, launching the wine.
Epistémê’s 2023 vintage is the fourth edition of the project.
BSB’s School of Wine & Spirits Business
Founded in 1899, the Burgundy School of Business (BSB) is one of France’s Grandes écoles (France’s version of Ivy League). They are one of the only business schools in the world with triple accreditation: EQUIS, AACSB, and AMBA.
Located in one of the world’s most prestigious wine regions, they created their globally renowned School of Wine & Spirits Business in 2013. With a strong focus on international business, marketing, and management, the School of Wine & Spirits Business prepares students to excel in the complex and dynamic global market of wine and spirits.
I am pleased to share my ongoing partnership with this prestigious institution.
Who is Armand Heitz
Armand Heitz is a dynamic winemaker famous for his innovative grape-growing and wine-making approach in Burgundy. After studying agricultural engineering in Switzerland, he inherited his family’s Chassagne-Montrachet estate in 2013 with a unique goal in mind. He didn’t just want to stop at revitalising the estate. He wanted to create a sustainable ecosystem, reflecting nature itself.
Over the years, he expanded the estate, while diversifying the land and converting to biodynamic farming. Today, his 250-hectare estate is more than 30 parcels of vines in the Côte-d’Or and Beaujolais regions. His land includes mixed farming, meadows, pastures, woodlands, and field crops.
Here in France, Armand is a trailblazer and code-breaker; he is not afraid of experimenting with rare or forgotten grape varieties. For him, it is not just about creating exceptional wines. It is also about working with the changing climate and vineyard issues, while preserving the terroir and reducing his own impact on the environment.
His dedication to sustainability shines through his expressive, high-quality, terroir-driven wines. Happy vines, happy wines!
Epistémê 2023
Epistémê 2023 is the fourth edition of the project. This creation of Armand Heitz and Sandra Lorssery embodies the estate’s principal objective of having a positive impact on the environment. The goal: a wine with a minimal carbon footprint.
Starting With the Vineyards
All wine starts in the vineyards, the first step towards carbon neutrality. Here in France, wine makers are feeling the effects of climate change. They are now dealing with unpredictable weather patterns: more frequent heatwaves and droughts, hail, and heavy, unseasonable rains. Winters — important for the dormant period in the vine growing cycle — aren’t as cold as they used to be. And lack snow. This unpredictability threatens the health of the vines and can result in inconsistent yields, shifting flavour profiles, and inconsistent overall quality of wines.
Burgundy winemakers, known for their terroir-driven wines, are especially vulnerable as the region’s micro-climates are highly sensitive to even small climatic variations. This year’s wet weather, for example, has led to major problems with mildew and powdery mildew (oidium). Treatments for pests and diseases can be costly with an environmental burden.
Top row (left to right): Phylloxera, grey mould + grape berry moth, grape leaf hopper, vine leaf folder moth. Middle row: Willow beauty moth caterpillars, grapevine fanleaf virus. Bottom row: Oidium, mildew, grapevine leafroll viruses
But there’s a relatively natural solution that has already existed for over a century… grape hybrids! These resistant varieties, known locally as cépages résistants, have been in the shadows for decades. Either banned by AOCs or sneered at by many winemakers, they are the future of wine making around the world. In fact, new generation winemakers are now starting to use them, preferring to “demote” to Vin De France wines instead of abiding by prestigious appellation rules.
Epistémê 2023 is a blend of two hybrid varieties planted at the base of Meursault’s slopes. The first is Souviginier Gris, a bloomy pink-skinned grape originating from Germany. Primarily used for white wines and rosé, it is itself a cross between two other hybrids: Seyval Blanc and Pink Zähringer. The second variety is Voltis. This uncommon greenish-yellow grape was just authorized as the 8th permitted grape variety here in Champagne. Both varieties like the same growing conditions as Chardonnay, making Meursault the perfect terroir both them!
Wine Making
Wine making for this wine is as natural as possible. No temperature regulation or pumps were used. Gravity guided the barreling and bottling. Aged on lees and no sulfites added.
The Packaging
Bottles are heavy and have a considerable impact on carbon footprint. Besides the implications of creating the bottles, transporting their weight is a significant concern. Conscious of this, a local manufacturer in Chalon-sur-Saône is behind this wine’s light, recycled glass bottles. Packaged without a capsule, a natural cork dust stopper (treated with beeswax) is on display. Even the label and the glue are eco-friendly and applied by hand.
Tasting
While Epistémê 2023 comes from one of the most famous white wine villages in the world, don’t expect it to taste like your typical Burgundy!
The biggest difference, of course, is that it is a blend of Souviginier Gris and Voltis rather than Chardonnay (or Aligoté). It is surprisingly intense and aromatically complex, which I personally really like in wine. The nose is fruity and creamy. Think a summer bouquet of honeydew, freshly sliced apple, and lemon with crème anglaise. The intensity continues in mouth, which is well structured with a fresh crunchiness. Gourmet and long with a touch of bread on the finish. A really nice discovery that I would love alongside grilled squid or Greek-style BBQ skewers.
Overall Thoughts
Epistémê 2023 is a provocative cuvée that rethinks Old World codes and alludes to the future of wine. France and other European countries hold AOC rules near and dear, but as climates continue to change, I think that the rules will need to change too. There are something like 10,000 grape varieties out there, but only 45 are permitted in France’s appellations system. This lack of diversity doesn’t let vines stand a chance against the pests and maladies that are becoming more of a threat these days. And there are only so many pesticides and funcides that can be used before the soil degrades and surface waters are polluted. For winemakers, it is worth thinking about how to counter these issues more naturally. And for consumers to also accept the changing path of wine.
On a personal level, this is a topic that really interests me. In fact, I write about it in my publications. Voltis is a newly permitted grape variety in Champagne, but it will be several years before any production will be made with them. So, this was my first time trying a wine with this variety. The result is promising and I am excited to see how it will be used in this region.
Overall, Epistémê 2023 is a really fantastic project by Armand Heitz and Sandra Lorssery. Bravo !
