Founded in 1981, Champagne Bruno Paillard may be relatively young compared to some of its storied competitors, but it rapidly made a name for itself as a symbol of innovation, elegance, and quality. It broke the codes of the dominating Champagne Houses of the time and paved the way for new Champagne styles that are trendy with amateurs today. Not open to the public, I was kindly invited behind the scenes of this trailblazing Maison. And I also had the opportunity to be one of the first to try their newly released vintage. Read all about my experience visiting Champagne Bruno Paillard below!
Menu
About Champagne Bruno Paillard
The Visit
The Tasting
Overall Thoughts
About Champagne Bruno Paillard
Bruno Paillard comes from a long line of brokers and growers in the Grands Crus villages of Bouzy and Verzenay. Following the family tradition, he started working as a broker himself. Six years later, he had the ambitious dream to found his own Champagne House and create a different product than what was on the market. His idea was to focus on the purity and elegance of the different terroirs of the region: the OG “grower champagne” that is popular today.
At the time, classic big-brand champagnes were popular, especially demi-sec (which occupied 30% of the market). The leading styles didn’t promote originality or the expressiveness of terroir.
It is in this environment that Mr. Paillard changed up the champagne world. In a rented cellar with grapes purchased from carefully selected growers, he launched his eponymous Champagne House. The first created in nearly a century!
Several years later, he shook up the scene again by inventing the first above-ground cellar. This allows perfect control over the temperature, lighting, and humidity levels. He was the first Maison to include the disgorgement date on the labels. Success soon followed as he was able to refine his personal style of wines. They seduced critics and press alike.
Eventually, Mr. Paillard bought his first vineyard: three prestigious Grand Cru hectares in Oger in the Côte des Blancs. Now, the vineyards cover 26 hectares, made up of 89 parcels in 19 crus — half of which are Grand Cru. 50% of the grapes are Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay, and 13% Meunier. The majority of the Maison’s grapes come from these vineyards and the remainder are still purchased from the same independent growers who have been Paillard’s partners for decades.
Today, the Maison is still family run, with Bruno Paillard’s daughter, Alice, in the helm. They have the highest level of HVE certification to promote soil biodiversity for the most authentic and thriving expression of the terroir.
The Visit
The Exterior
Unlike many other Maisons housed in old mansions, Champagne Bruno Paillaird’s home is quite modern. Designed by architect Jacques Bléhaut, this state-of-the-art winery combines stainless steel, glass, and wood to symbolize the three noble vessels of Champagne. A modern and revolutionary building for a modern and revolutionary brand.
The Interior
Stepping inside, an impressive hall greets visitors, using the Champagne-inspired elements mentioned above. Natural light from skylights fills the room. Shadow-boxes line the walls, filled with original artwork and descriptions of the artists… along with corresponding bottles.
To further illustrate the individuality of each vintage, Bruno Paillard collaborates with a different artist each year to develop unique artwork for the label of a new release. The idea is that each year has its own character, much like how each artist has theirs. The winemakers choose a word or theme that best fits the year and the artist must paint something corresponding. I personally love this project and that they are all on display!
A steel and wood walkway overhangs the hall, leading to offices and the tasting room. Because the Maison isn’t open to the public, it is beautiful but functional, without the usual touristy decor. It was refreshing to see the actual work spaces of employees instead of a visitor center.
The Vat Rooms
Since all the production happens here, we only had to take a few steps to reach the vat rooms and cellars. This is where the magic happens!
Two large North-East-facing rooms store 400 barrels and 100 stainless steel vats. The position lessens the effects of heat from outdoors). One room is dedicated to white grapes and the other to black grapes. All grapes are treated equally regardless of village or plot. That means, only using the first press, minimal intervention, and using old oak.
Something that really struck me was the smell of the rooms. It smelled like I had just walked into a French bakery! Depending on the time of year, the rooms smell different. Just after the harvest, it is fruity, a couple months later, it smells like wine. The barrels had recently been emptied, so I was smelling the residual yeast. If you like to visit wineries, smelling is an interesting experience!
The Cellars
Bruno Paillard was the first Champagne house to use above-ground cellars, giving them full control of the temperature and humidity levels. The first thing I saw was their solera-style system, uncommon in Champagne. These barrels store their perpetual reserve dating back to 1985! These reserve wines are already assemblages of the previous year (25% to 50%), which themselves are assemblages (25% to 50%) of reserve wines from the previous year, going back to the origin of the Maison.
Like most champagne producers, they hold back wines from different harvests to blend into non-vintage cuvées to maintain the House style. Blending these older reserve wines with newer, fresher base years gives the final champagne roundness and depth. Determining how much to add is definitely an art.
Champagne Bruno Paillard produces 500,000 bottles per year, about 75% for export through 30 different countries – mainly Europe, Asia and Northern America. They have a detailed system to organize the impressive amount of bottles stored here!
An impressive row of riddling machines are in the cellars. Like most producers, hand-riddling is only for big formats like Jeroboams. It would be very hard on the wrists to do all of these bottles by hand! Arthritis is the curse for people with this manual in the past. I got to see some of the bottles that are ready for disgorgement, already stored upside down to keep the lees close to the cap.
In The Action
Speaking of disgorgement, the next part of my visit included the somewhat less romantic production side. Disgorgement and labelling all happen on-site. I got a low-down on the large disgorgement machine that also adds the liqueur d’expedition to create the final, finished bottles. These bottles return to the cellars to await labelling.
Turning around, the labelling team was working hard. Because Champagne Bruno Paillard exports to so many different countries, and because many of them have their own labelling requirements, it makes the most sense to place the labels as the orders come in, to avoid waste. Each bottle receives a careful inspection and light-proof plastic covers any transparent bottles. Then they are boxed for shipping. I didn’t realize how manual this is!
This ended the tour part of my visit. Now onto the tasting!
The Tasting
Champagne Bruno Paillard has several champagnes available to the public each year: six non-vintages and two prestigious vintage cuvées. I had the opportunity to try five from their fantastic range, including the newly released 2014 Blanc de Blancs. I was one of the first outside of the Maison to try it!
Champagne Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Extra Brut
45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 22% Meunier | 5.5g/L | 3 years on lees + 6 months ageing post-disgorgement | Selection of over 30 Crus, 33% from perpetual reserve initiated in 1985
The tasting began with Bruno Paillard’s flagship cuvée, a really lovely introduction to the Maison’s signature style. I love the nose: think of walking into a bakery right as they are pulling freshly baked shortbread out of the oven. The bakery has bowls of fresh apricot, lemon zest, and dried fruits for their pastries, the scents wafting through the bready air. Just scrumptious. The mouth is rich but refreshing. A really beautiful and classy structure. During the tasting, we described it as “driving a Bentley” and I think that is the best description! This is fantastic on its own or with apéro, but it would shine best with a meal.
Champagne Bruno Paillard Dosage Zéro D:Z
50% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 25% Meunier | 0g/L | 3 years on lees + 6 months ageing post-disgorgement | Mostly vinified in small oak barrels, 50% from perpetual reserve initiated in 2000
Champagne Bruno Paillard’s goal is to represent the purity and energy of its terroirs. This cuvée shines a light on the more austere northern slopes of Montagne de Reims and the first few kilometers on the right bank of the Marne Valley. And the result is surprising!
The nose opens softly with almonds, pear, and a whiff of delicate white flowers. The aromas then evolve into a more complex bouquet of toasted brioche with chocolate chips, berries, and baking spices. The mouth is lively, unexpectedly rich, but still refreshing with its salinity and hint of minerality. The finish is incredibly long. It is not at all what I expect from a zero dosage and I absolutely love it. Definitely a great pairing for raw foods like scallop carpaccio.
Champagne Bruno Paillard Rosé Première Cuvée
Mainly Pinot Noir with a secret touch of Chardonnay (the exact assemblage changes every year) | 5.5g/L | 3 years on lees + 6 months ageing post-disgorgement | 33% from perpetual reserve initiated in 1985
I was first struck by this cuvée’s attractive salmon colour: a blend of white wine from pinot noir and a prolonged maceration of the juice on the skins of this same grape variety. This results in a meaty rosé that retains its freshness. Interestingly saline with wild strawberries and red currants on the nose, with a hint of violet. This is relatively easy to drink and makes a great pairing for light summer dishes, think Italian aperitivo on a terrace.
Champagne Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay, Côte des Blancs Grands Crus mostly from Oger & Mesnil-Sur-Oger | 4.5g/L | 4 years on lees + 10 months ageing post-disgorgement | 33% from perpetual reserve initiated in 1990
This is a particularly special cuvée that pays homage to the historic vineyards of the Maison. Precise, pure, and intense are how I would describe it. The nose has tantalizing notes of lime, orange blossom, and almond. I smell the sea, with freshly harvested oysters, lemon, and brioche. Nuttiness and citrus continue in the mouth, along with the distinctive chalky minerality of the region. The long ageing mellows the attack and gives a delightfully creamy gustatory experience. This is what I want in a Blanc de Blancs and I would love this with a plate of oysters!
Champagne Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs 2014
100% Chardonnay, Côte des Blancs Grands Crus from Oger & Mesnil-Sur-Oger | 3g/L | More than 7 years on lees + ageing post-disgorgement | 25% under oak barrels
What an honour it was to be one of the first to try this new cuvée! In fact, it is not even on the Maison’s website yet (as of this article’s publication). 2014 was challenging, especially for black grapes, and full of contrasts. Spring was hot and humid. It became cooler and drier towards the end of summer, with grapes maturing in the nick of time for harvest. Although it is known as a relatively cold vintage, 2014 yielded surprisingly generous, Gourmand, results… the theme for this cuvée.
Expect sumptuous aromas of delicate white flowers, freshly sliced lemon, wet river rocks, pink salt, playful yellow fruits, and buttery croissants. The mouth is round and silky but its minerality adds an uplifting freshness. As the wine opens, so many nuances are discovered. Overall, the whole experience of drinking this cuvée feels enveloping and luxurious. This is definitely a wine for a meal.
I also want to acknowledge the artist, Monique Tello, for this year’s label artwork. I absolutely love the colours and playfulness; to me, it evokes the brightness, complexity, and modernity of this new release.
Overall Thoughts
Overall, visiting Champagne Bruno Paillard was an insightful (and delicious) experience. I appreciate my behind-the-scenes venture into the workings of a trailblaizing Maison and actually seeing the work in action. I loved learning about how he influenced the sometimes overly traditional Champagne World, paving the way for new styles of bubbly in the region. And of course, the resulting champagnes are a fabulous education as well. I highly recommend these champagnes. A big thank you to Alice and Lea for this invitation.
