Le Printemps des Champagnes is the event of the year in Champagne. This industry-only event brings together importers, restaurant owners, sommeliers, wine merchants, and journalists from 40 different countries to taste some of the best and newest bottles released by winemakers, from Big Maisons to tiny independent growers. This year, the focus was not only on bubbly. Many winemakers also put forward Coteaux Champenois, the elusive still wines of Champagne.
Quite passionate about these wines, I have written about them in the April 2024 issue of Wine Enthusiast. Over the course of the event, I tasted my way through almost 200 cuvées (not including vins clairs or after-parties) to share my top 17 Coteaux Champenois discoveries. While they are not in any particular order, I starred my top 3. They are all from grower champagne makers — many of them are so confidential, that you won’t find any information on Google! And a few of them have not even been bottled or released yet, so you are “in the know” before anyone else. Please enjoy the list responsibly 😉
Alternatively, you can also find my top champagne discoveries here.
Menu
Reds
- Paul Clouet Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2023*
- Allouchery-Deguerne Côteaux Champenois Rouge 1er Cru Les Plantelles 2023
- Émilien Allouchery Côteaux Champenois Rouge 1er Cru Le Parfondval 2022
- Bastien Pointillart Côteaux Champenois Rouge 1er Cru Roto 2020
- Jean-Marie Bandock Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2020
- Paul Bara Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2018
- Baron Dauvergne Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2020
- Brice Bouzy Rouge Grand Cru 2021
Whites
- Allouchery-Deguerne Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru Le Caquerey 2022*
- Perseval-Farge Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru*
- Perseval-Farge Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru #2
- Parmantier-Rigaut Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru Les Monts des Chrétiens 2023
- Émilien Allouchery Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru Les Chaillots 2022
- Thomas Perseval Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Meunier Blanc 2021
- Guerlet Deguerne Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Blanc Les Chardonnays de Leonore 2019
- Guerlet Deguerne Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Blanc La Vigneule
- Froment-Griffon Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Blanc Les Noues 2022
Reds
- Paul Clouet Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2023*
- Allouchery-Deguerne Côteaux Champenois Rouge 1er Cru Les Plantelles 2023
- Émilien Allouchery Côteaux Champenois Rouge 1er Cru Le Parfondval 2022
- Bastien Pointillart Côteaux Champenois Rouge 1er Cru Roto 2020
- Jean-Marie Bandock Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2020
- Paul Bara Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2018
- Baron Dauvergne Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2020
- Brice Bouzy Rouge Grand Cru 2021
Paul Clouet Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2023*
100% Pinot Noir | Aged in oak | Les Clos and Hautes Brousses parcels, midslope with South exposure | HVE Sustainable Farming
Bouzy has the unique distinction of being the only village appellation of Côteaux Champenois. It is famous for its Pinot Noir based reds with distinct aromas of cherry. While Paul Clouet isn’t new to making these wines, he drastically changed his style with his latest vintage. His goal is to “go back to the real Côteaux Champenois” of old, the drink of French kings. The best grapes from his best parcels are macerated for a long time and then aged French oak barrels, making a gorgeous new release. Aromas of chocolate covered cherries entice the nose and the mouth has the richness of a nice Burgundy. I still keep thinking of this wine!
Allouchery-Deguerne Côteaux Champenois Rouge 1er Cru Écueil Les Plantelles 2023
100% Pinot Noir | Aged in oak barrels | Parcel in Écueil (Montagne de Reims) issued from vines planted more than 50 years ago | HVE Sustainable Farming
I already know Allouchery-Deguerne’s exquisite Champagnes so I was very curious about trying his Coteaux Champenois. And he definitely delivers! The 2023 vintage has not been bottled yet, so this is truly en primeur. Still young, but its potential is already easy to detect. The nose has absolutely mouthwatering aromas of Black Forest cake! Think dark chocolate, baking spices, kirsch, and a hint of coffee. A little whiff of exotic rainforest. The mouth is velvety and overall easy to drink. Very exciting. I would wait a few years before drinking, and would highly recommend this with a grilled steak or dark chocolate.
Émilien Allouchery Côteaux Champenois Rouge 1er Cru Le Parfondval 2022
Pinot Noir & Meunier | Aged in oak barrels | Parcel in Écueil (Montagne de Reims) issued from vines planted in 1971 | Sustainable Agriculture
While his name might seem new to the scene, Émilien comes from a long line of winemakers (Champagne Allouchery-Perseval). He brings a fresh approach to his family’s wines, using an interesting combination of oak barrels and amphorae in the vinification processes. This cuvée, while still young, is beautifully expressive and fruity on the nose with notes of all sorts of ripe red fruits and berries. I need to add this to my cave and I am very excited to see how this evolves in a couple of years.
Bastien Pointillart Côteaux Champenois Rouge 1er Cru Roto 2020
Pinot Noir, Meunier, Chardonnay | Almost 2 years in old oak barrels, minimal intervention | Single plot in Chamery | Certified Organic
This is quite unlike any other Côteaux Champenois I have tried. Served from a Magnum, it is surprisingly powerful, reminiscent of red wines from Rhône! Lots of dark fruit and spice on the nose. A bit tannic and herbal (rosemary, thyme). It’s something that would be fantastic alongside game meats. A very interesting discovery, especially for fans of big wines.
Jean-Marie Bandock Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2020
100% Pinot Noir | Aged in oak barrels for 6 months | Bouzy, midslope | Sustainable Farming
A fantastic example of Bouzy! Cherry bomb on the nose with a hint of vanilla. The mouth is bright, fresh, and light. It is an exciting and refreshing wine that completely contrasts with the one I posted above. I would pair this with white poultry, chaource, or enjoy during apéro with friends. I think it would work well during a BBQ too. It is easy to drink and crowd-pleasing.
Paul Bara Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2018
100% Pinot Noir | Fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks | Old vines, more than 50 years old | HVE Sustainable Farming
After discovering this winemaker in a Masterclass, I was interested in trying their red wine. And I am so glad I did. The nose is appealingly complex and fruity with notes of juicy black cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. There is a whiff of violet and forest floor. A hint of baking spices. The mouth is structured and silky with a nice length. Overall, a really nice discovery.
Baron Dauvergne Bouzy Grand Cru Rouge 2020
100% Pinot Noir | Aged in oak barrels | Grapes from the oldest vines with the best exposure | HVE Sustainable Farming
A great red reminiscent of a good quality Burgundy. Expect perfectly ripe cherries and dark chocolate on the nose, with notes of wood and pepper. The mouth is perfectly rich with velvety tannins. An elegant wine that is enjoyable by itself, but would elevate a nice meal with slow roasted meat.
Brice Bouzy Rouge Grand Cru 2021
100% Pinot Noir | Fermented and aged in oak barrels for 18 months, unfiltered | Grapes exclusively from parcels historically used for still red wines: Les Hauts Vaudayants, Les Doyennes, Les Basses Brousses | HVE Sustainable Farming, converting to organic
I cannot recommend Champagne Brice enough, seriously exquisite bubbly and still wines. As to be expected; this family has been producing wines in the region for ten generations! Think perfectly ripe wild strawberries dipped in chocolate on the nose. The mouth is elegant and fresh with the lightest of tannins. Absolutely delicious and would pair well with good quality charcuterie or rabbit.
Whites
- Allouchery-Deguerne Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru Le Caquerey 2022*
- Perseval-Farge Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru*
- Perseval-Farge Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru #2
- Parmantier-Rigaut Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru Les Monts des Chrétiens 2023
- Émilien Allouchery Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru Les Chaillots 2022
- Thomas Perseval Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Meunier Blanc 2021
- Guerlet Deguerne Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Blanc Les Chardonnays de Leonore 2019
- Guerlet Deguerne Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Blanc La Vigneule
- Froment-Griffon Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Blanc Les Noues 2022
Allouchery-Deguerne Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru Le Caquerey 2022*
100% Chardonnay | Aged in oak barrels | Parcel in Chamery (Montagne de Reims) issued from vines planted in the 1950s | HVE Sustainable Farming
This isn’t just another incredible still wine from a favourite producer: it is one of my absolute favourites on the list! The nose is totally gourmande and delicious: buttery with tropical fruit and vanilla, reminiscent of a tarte tropézienne. Gourmande, buttery and yummy nose, vanilla, tropical fruit. The mouth is rich and round. A perfect Chardonnay to accompany langoustines. This vintage, a victim of its own success, is completely sold out, but I was told that the 2023 vintage should be very similar.
Perseval-Farge Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru*
51% Arbane, 20% Chardonnay,15% Petit Meslier, 14% Pinot Gris | Assemblage of vintages, 50% from 2017, 50% from 2018 | Aged in oak barrels, 14 months sur lies, no fining or filtration, bottled in 2020 | Chamery, clay-limestone soil, north-east exposure | Certified Organic
It’s not often that you can find some of Champagne’s oldest grape varieties used in bubbly. And even rarer when they are used to produce still wines. Perseval-Farge pushes the boundaries with their Coteaux Champenois, not just by adding these rare varieties in the assemblage, but also by making them the main grapes! The resulting wines are absolutely stunning. The nose for this complex and full of surprises: tantalizing notes of bergamot and lime, butter, and dried apricot. The mouth is fresh and silky with a long finish. It’s something that can pair with a wide variety of dishes, from young comté cheese, to grilled chicken, to shellfish. This wine wowed me!
Perseval-Farge Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru #2
43% Petit Meslier, 27% Pinot Gris, 25% Arbane, 5% Chardonnay | Assemblage of vintages, 25% from 2020, 75% from 2022 | Aged in oak barrels, no fining or filtration, not yet bottled | Chamery, clay-limestone soil, north-east exposure | Certified Organic
Another fantastic discovery with an even greater focus on Champagne’s permitted rare grape varieties. This has not yet been bottled, so keep your eyes and ears open — this is definitely going to disappear quickly when it is released! The nose is bright and fruity with a hint of cream. It reminds me of a summery fruit salad. The mouth is equally as enticing and fresh.
Parmantier-Rigaut Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru Les Monts des Chrétiens 2023
100% Chardonnay | Fermentation and ageing (12 months) in oak barrels, no malolactic fermentation | Single parcel, vines planted in 1972 between Écueil and Chamery in Montagne de Reims
This winemaker’s first attempt at making white Côteaux Champenois is a hit. Not yet bottled and even without labels, it is an absolute treat already. Quite different from other wines in my tastings, the nose expresses fresh pear and apricot. The mouth is crisp, mineral, and fresh. It is incredibly light and refreshing.
Émilien Allouchery Côteaux Champenois Blanc 1er Cru Les Chaillots 2022
100% Chardonnay | Aged 13 months in oak barrels, no fining or filtration | Parcel in Écueil (Montagne de Reims) issued from vines planted in 1970 | Sustainable Agriculture
This cuvée is so confidential that it has not even been released to the public yet! The old vines and unique vinification method give this wine beautiful complexity. Its aromas remind me of a lemon tart with a buttery biscuit crust and a hint of grapefruit. Overall really beautiful and I would love to have this with a scallop carpaccio or monkfish!
Thomas Perseval Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Meunier Blanc 2021
100% Meunier | Native yeasts and low intervention, aged in oak barrels | Chamery (Montagne de Reims) | Certified organic
After learning the ropes of biodynamic and terroir-driven winemaking in Burgundy, Thomas brought new perspectives to his family’s estate in Champagne. He converted to organic viticulture more than a decade ago, mixing vegetation and using sheep to be as natural as possible. Even in the cellars, he uses minimal intervention, letting the terroir, fruit, and vintage fully express themselves. The resulting wines are expressive, complex, and delicate. This particular Meunier-based wine really impressed me. Pale pink in colour, it is deliciously buttery with pleasing aromas of strawberry-rhubarb pie. The mouth has minerality and freshness. It is definitely a crowd-pleaser that reminds me of springtime.
Guerlet Deguerne Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Blanc Les Chardonnays de Leonore 2019
100% Chardonnay | Aged on lies, unfiltered | An assemblage of several old-vine parcels in Chamery: Les Noues (1967), Les Cayens (1970), and Le Chemin des vaches (1967) | Certified organic
This new generation of winemakers just launched their Côteaux Champenois last year with a commitment to protecting the environment. The still wines come from the best parcels that used to be exclusively reserved for their best Champagnes. This Chardonnay is splendidly gourmande: buttery croissant, vanilla, woody. With a buttery, fatty mouth to match. Really delicious and would be perfect with shellfish.
Guerlet Deguerne Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Blanc La Vigneule
100% Pinot Noir | Minimal intervention | Chamery parcel planted in 1991 with south-east exposure | Certified organic
Something very special about Côteaux Champenois is that white wines can be made from black grapes! And the results can be surprising. This Pinot Noir based white is unexpectedly not fruity. Instead, expect another gourmande wine with aromas of brioche and spices. The mouth is big and round and mineral. If I didn’t already know the grape variety, I would have thought it was a very nice Chardonnay!
Froment-Griffon Côteaux Champenois 1er Cru Blanc Les Noues 2022
100% Pinot Noir | Aged in old oak barrels | Chamery | HVE Sustainable Farming
After studying in Burgundy, these winemakers have their own interesting approach to Côteaux Champenois: the wine changes every year! What I mean, is that every vintage, they focus on a particular grape variety, from a different parcel. So that they can make the best wines from their best grapes. The result is worth all the hard work. Pale salmon in colour, this 2022 vintage is fresh, fruity, and well-balanced, even though it is young. Lots of ripe, juicy citrus and pastry on the nose. The mouth is round and overall pleasant to drink. Definitely get your hands on this cuvée while you can!
1 Comment