“Gucci has always represented great design and contemporary lifestyle.”
Marco Bizzarri, CEO of Gucci
Gucci. The Italian luxury powerhouse has roots in Florence, where it first opened its first doors in 1921. The brand is not only famous for its eclectic and contemporary creations. It is also the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship and imaginative design. In recent years, it has evolved to “redefine Luxury for the 21st century”, launching home collections, makeup, jewellery, and more. Perhaps most interestingly, they opened a museum and a series of high-end restaurants for a more sensorial plunge into the Gucci universe. While visiting Florence, I had the opportunity to visit their original restaurant. This is my review: Gucci Osteria da Massimo Battura.
About Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura
The Gucci Osteria concept is the brainchild of childhood friends, Marco Bizzarri (CEO of Gucci) and Massimo Bottura. Massimo Bottura is arguably one of Italy’s most famous chefs. He not only earned 3 Michelin Stars for his Osteria Francescana, he ranked N°1 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list twice and is currently part of the Best of the Best list.
Their idea was simple: they wanted to combine food and fashion into one. Of course, why not do that in the birthplace of Gucci, a city deeply rooted in its Italian history, art, and culture? The restaurant opened on the main floor of the Gucci Garden, a multi-level, multi-sensorial building dedicated to the brand. The space also features a museum/art space, gift shop, and cocktail bar. It is located in the historic 13th century Palazzo della Mercanzia at Piazza della Signoria.
The Osteria concept was a success. It won a Michelin Star in 2019 an opened in selected world cities, such as Beverly Hills, Tokyo, and Seoul. Each restaurant has its own twist on Italian cuisine, incorporating local ingredients and techniques.
The Decor
The first thing that grabbed my attention was the decor. I actually first heard about the Gucci Osterias in one of the online luxury publications that I follow. The article included many images of the decor and I was enthralled. Admittedly, it was a big selling point for my visit.
It is exactly what I would expect from Gucci: gorgeous in-your-face splendour, combining traditional lux details with bold youthful colours. A tribute to Florentine history, every detail was like eye candy.
Deliciously apple green accent walls brought liveliness to the quintissentially Tuscan vaulted rooms. Antique gilded mirrors, 13th-century stone Negociant coats of arms, the text of Lorenzo de’ Medici’s 15th-century Canto Carnascialesco, and depictions of crafts practiced in Florence in the 17th century decorated the walls.
Unexpected bubble gum pink dotted the dining rooms through chairs, menus, and receipt envelopes. Big windows brought in lots of natural light, illuminating features such as the hand-painted floor and plush velvet chairs.
My favourite part of the decor was the dishes. Made of Ginori porcelain (founded in 1735!), they were hand-painted based on the Gucci herbarium. Reserved exclusively to the flagship store in Florence, the red colour palette cannot be found anywhere else. Absolutely exquisite. A classical buffet brilliantly presented the full range of Gucci’s dinnerware (in the black palette).
The Menu
Although Massimo Bottura’s name is above the front door, Co-Executive Chefs (and married couple) Karime López and Takahiko Kondo are the ones in the kitchen. A 1* Mexican executive chef in Italy, Karime López was previously linked with Noma, Central Lima, and Osteria Francescana***. Her partner, Takahiko Kondo, was also a chef at Osteria Francescana***, as well as El Celler de Can Roca***. They brought their own unique twists to the relatively Italian menu, using elements from their respective cultures. Tostadas and mole from López, Taka’s steamed bao bun with pork belly, etc…
Since I was not very hungry, I ordered à la carte instead of a tasting menu. While photos of the dishes that I saw online looked great, most of what I read on the menu did not really appeal to me. It was my first time back in Tuscany in something like a decade, so I wanted to eat something regional. The server recommended their homemade pasta. I honestly could not justify getting a plate at 40€ when I could find excellent homemade pasta almost everywhere around us for around 9€. Instead, I opted for their steak: Rossini’s Chianina. I figured that if I was still hungry or if it was exceptionally good, I could order something else afterwards.
The Wine
Castello di Monsanto’s Sangioveto “Fabrizio Bianchi” IGT 2016 was my recommended wine pairing. It is a big Italian red. A lush and rich nose with notes of blackberries, dark cherry and plum. Lots of juicy, dark cherry in mouth with a long complex finish. I liked it very much (it also received 93/100 by Robert Parker and 94/100 by James Suckling).
The Meal
The meal started with a small piece of foccacia (meant to last the entire meal) and one breadstick per guest.
The amuse-bouches were more exciting. They included pomodoro gougères, a spicy bean broth, and a refreshingly zesty slice of plum. I liked all three. The plum was particularly memorable and photogenic.
Now time for the actual meal. Tuscan steak is famous because of the local Chianina beef. Prized white Tuscan Chianina cattle provides a particular tenderness and depth of flavour that makes this an exceptional meat. It is typically served al sangue, or bloody (rare, blue…). At Gucci Osteria, several pieces are served with a black truffle and Brunello sauce, poured at the table using a Gucci Herbarium Creamer. Alongside was a quenelle of caviar. A ramekin held smoked baby bok choy.
I liked the steak. The meat was cooked perfectly and was very tender. Compared to photos of the tasting menu, I had received a few more slices. Despite this, I would not consider it a generous portion or even a full meal. The sauce was underwhelming — I did not really taste the truffle. The caviar seemed unnecessary and did not really go with the rest of the dish. Had it been added as an expensive condiment to justify the price on the menu? It felt that way. The bok choy tasted nice but felt like an afterthought and also did not elevate the rest of the flavours. Overall, it was an ok dish, although not very inspiring nor memorable, despite it being the most expensive on the menu. The wine was a good pairing with it though.
At this point, we decided that we would end the meal here and have dessert elsewhere. I finished with espresso and mignardises, which included a chocolate, a citrus bite, and a cherry soup. The flavours were nice and I liked the presentation.
The Service
The service left much to be desired. Initially friendly when we entered, it went downhill at the table. Our server was inattentive, impatient, and unfriendly. Dishes were not explained. At one point, a member of the wait staff came over to tell us something, but he mumbled very quickly and quietly then ran off. Was it an explanation of our dish? I am not sure if he was even speaking English or Italian because we could not hear and he would not come back.
There was also some sort of influencer filming his entire meal. Several phones were set up on his table so that he could film himself eating. His assistant/girlfriend held up a script for him to read. Very tacky and I was honestly quite surprised that the staff allowed this, especially since other patrons were being filmed without consent. The service played a big part in us ending our meal prematurely.
Overall Thoughts
I did not know that the Gucci Osteria had a 1* until writing this article. I am surprised and do not feel that this is merited. While the restaurant is beautiful, the menu and overall experience is lacking. It is not inspiring and I left feeling disappointed and hungry. There are a lot of impressive names attaches to this restaurant, but it did not deliver. The portions are pretentiously small (even for a high-end restaurant) and the service appalling. I wonder if it is just a way to promote Gucci’s new dinnerware (which I actually love) or if it is another marketing gimic. While I do not regret visiting, I do not think that I would return. It is the place to go if you are a Gucci fanatic but not necessarily a foodie. For serious gastronomes, there are a plethora of much more satisfying venues.
