Stepping into the jungle of Gunung Leuser National Park, is like crossing into another world. Dense canopies tower overhead. Rivers snake through emerald valleys. The sounds of wildlife echo from every direction in this remote corner of Indonesia. After navigating its steep, tangled trails by day, I was gripped by a thrill as I prepared to camp overnight in this untamed wilderness. My heart raced at the thought of spotting the elusive orangutan, the jungle’s majestic acrobat, swinging effortlessly through the treetops. Join me as I share this unforgettable adventure to the jungle of Bukit Lawang, where the raw beauty of nature reigns supreme and every moment is filled with wonder.
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Gunung Leuser National Park
The Hike
Camping in the Jungle
Flora
Animal Sightings
Taking the Jungle Taxi
Overall Thoughts
Gunung Leuser National Park
Located in the wilderness of North Sumatra, the village of Bukit Lawang is the gateway to Gunung Leuser National Park. These 7,927 km2 are home to one of the most significant (and last) populations of orangutans on the planet. Once a rescue center for these impressive apes, the orangutans have thrived around the mountain (Mount Leuser), becoming fully wild after several generations. They are the true Kings and Queens of the jungle here.
Today, the national park is home to four different species of monkeys and three different species of apes, as well as over 750 different species of animals, more than 10,000 species of plants, and countless insects and funghi. Even elephants and rhinoceros live here, but they are much deeper within the jungle; at least several weeks of trekking.
The Hike
Getting here from France was no easy feat. After 3 planes, a train ride, and a 3h drive, my boyfriend and I finally made it to the charming village of Bukit Lawang for 3:00 in the morning. The first stop of our Indonesian adventure.
We managed to grab a short few hours of sleep and a hearty breakfast of nasi goreng and pineapple pancakes at our guesthouse before our guide arrived. Little did we know that nasi goreng (flavourful fried rice with egg) is the unofficial national dish of the county. And we would be eating a LOT of this in the coming weeks. As we ate, a mischievous long-tailed macaque tried to steal things from the terrace.
I have never experienced humidity like the rainforest before. I was dripping out of every pore after only a few steps. It felt like we were hiking in a hammam. All my clothes were drenched within 30 minutes and it was too humid for them to fully dry out over the two days we were in the jungle. My contacts fogged up. Even my camera complained. But, this only added to the adventure.
The first day included a gruelling uphill hike to the top of a lookout point of the park. Along the way, we stopped to learn about different plants and to observe wildlife. We had plenty of water breaks and enjoyed homemade nasi goreng for lunch. We then headed to camp for the late afternoon.
After surviving the night in the somewhat Spartan camp, we made our way back to the village through the jungle. We began by wading through a river before rappelling down slick hillsides. Lunch was another generous helping of nasi goreng. Black Gibbons put on a farewell concert before a “jungle taxi” carried us the rest of the way back to Bukit Lawang.
Camping in the Jungle
That intense first day wound down with a refreshing dip in the river along the camp, followed by a candlelit dinner as fireflies put on a show. While we had a private guide for the hike, camping is more communal and we were joined by another lovely couple. We had actually bumped into each other a couple times during the trek. It was nice to exchange news about animal sightings and upcoming travel plans over our meals.
The dinner (completely prepared at camp) was our first big taste of Indonesian staples. Sweet tempeh, eggs with gado-gado peanut sauce, vegetable curry, krupuk blek crackers. I braved the spiciness of authentic sambal with salt fish. Being a heat-lover, I couldn’t resist going back for seconds. Dessert was fresh pineapple topped with passion fruit. While in pineapples in Europe and North America are big, tart, and acidic, the ones in Sumatra are small, sweet, and tender with no acidity. The passion fruit adds texture and enticing floral flavours. I can’t even begin to describe how absolutely delicious this combination is.
Camp is a series of very simple bamboo and tarp structures along the bend of a lazy river. We had our own hut, which had a little privacy for changing. The beds are thin leather mattresses (not unlike gym mats from my childhood) within a mosquito net. But, there are surprisingly little mosquitoes in the jungle. We found out that the net is to protect against unwanted intruders like mice and frogs. And the number one rule is to make sure it stays completely closed and secured at all times. Our unlucky neighbours accidentally broke the rule in their sleep and learned a tough lesson. With a leg sticking out of the net, a sizeable rat scrambled its way into their beds for a visit!
We received a little visitor too, but not inside the net. They kindly left a bright yellow puddle that attracted all sorts of ants. Giant crickets and a little mouse also graced us with their presence.
Other amenities at camp included ropes to hang our clothes/bathing suits to dry and a very luxurious toilet. The second looks ominous in the photo, but I honestly really appreciated not having to dig a hole and squat, especially at night…
Speaking of toilets, hanging our clothes to dry was a BIG mistake. Even though they were only hanging during daylight with no animals in sight, it seems that the ropes are the preferred wildlife WC at night. So our clothes smelled absolutely revolting for the entire trek back and days later. It took three washes to remove the gag-inducing odours!
Anyways, the sounds of the jungle lulled us to sleep. We woke up to fresh coffee and the most delicious breakfast sandwich with a beautiful view. The best rewards for surviving a night in the jungle. And then we headed out for another day of trekking.
Flora
The first impressions of the jungle start, of course, with its prodigious variety of plants.
Rubber Trees
Within the first few minutes of the hike, we came across trees tapped with little bowls, similar to maple trees at a sugar bush. These are in fact rubber trees. And like maple, the milky white sap (known as latex) is harvested in cooler temperatures. Which means overnight and the wee hours of the morning here. A certain type of mushroom likes to grow where the sap is collected.
Needle Flowers
Beautiful bright orange flower clusters pierced the greenery around us. Known as needle flowers or jungle geranium, we learned that the flowers are not just pretty. They can be used as an antidote to bee stings. Note that they don’t smell like anything.
Dipterocarp Trees
One of the most impressive sites are dipterocarp hardwood trees. These massive trees grow to over 50m tall, providing canopy, fruit, and all sorts of wonderful benefits to the jungle ecosystem. They are in danger of deforestation due to palm oil farms, climate change, and logging (the timber makes exceptionally strong and pest-resistant homes).
Vines
Venturing deeper into the wilderness, it’s difficult not to marvel at the lianas. These woody, thick, twisting vines hang like drunken Hot Wheels tracks. While these, along with strangler figs, are emblematic of the jungle, they are in fact problematic. They climb trees like the dipterocarps and slowly kill them by blocking sunlight. The top parts of the trees dry out and die, eventually toppling over. The rest of the tree follows. These vines are becoming more aggressive as the climate warms.
Rattan/rotan is rather ominous looking because of its spikes. Used famously for making baskets and furniture, it is a type of climbing palm.
Fruit Trees
The jungle is home to all sorts of wild fruit trees. Not all of them are suitable for humans. But they are the main source of nutrition for jungle dwelling monkeys and apes. Orangutans are big fans of while durians, for example.
Poisonous Plants
We didn’t stumble on any poisonous jungle plants on the hike, unless you count mushrooms and inedible fruit. In general, there is nothing like poison ivy along the route. It might be different for longer treks that go deeper into the jungle.
Animal Sightings
In the wild, there is no telling beforehand what animals will swing by. So we certainly felt gratitude for all the incredible wildlife we were able to witness over two days! I am happy to share photos and videos of what we saw.
Thomas’s langur
Also known as the North Sumatran leaf monkey, these little mohawked monkeys can only be found in North Sumatra. Playful and curious, they are at risk of becoming endangered.
Long-tailed Macaque
While these monkeys aren’t exclusive to Sumatra (they are literally EVERYWHERE in Indonesia!), it felt special seeing them wild in the jungle. This group in particular was carrying babies and were very curious about us.
Sumatran Lar Gibbon
These golden coloured apes are native to Sumatran tree-tops. They are endangered. This one was a little curious and came to spy on us as it enjoyed its fruit.
Sumatran Siamang
These apes are also native to Sumatra. Also known as black gibbons, they can reach up to 1m in height. What makes them particularly unique is their enlarged throat sack, which allows them to make impressively loud resonating calls. We were lucky enough to get a serenade as we were returning to the village!
Orangutans
And now for the moment you readers have been waiting for… we spotted Orangutans multiple times! These great apes once roamed throughout SE Asia, but are only found in parts of Borneo and Sumatra today. Critically endangered, they are considered one of the most intelligent primates. They spend most of their time in trees, either eating, making babies, or sleeping. We first saw them sleeping in a giant nest. While males are absentee fathers, the mothers stay with their young and teach them how to live and build their own nests. As part of their teachings, they only use their nests once and rebuild a new one every day. I was surprised at their curiosity and their expressiveness. Photos don’t do them justice!
Rhinoceros Hornbill
We saw so many incredible birds like toucans and hornbills everywhere. Rhinoceros hornbills are particularly impressive because of their large, colourful casque.
Great Argus
We stumbled across this rare jungle pheasant along the path! Grows to over 1.5m in length, it has a blue face and the most beautiful plumage.
Jungle Cicada
These little bugs are so small and yet SO LOUD! Their buzzing is constant. All day and all night, they remind us of their presence, even though they were almost invisible due to their camouflage. Our guide somehow managed to catch one to show us what they look like.
Giant Ants
Ants might not sound very exciting (I really don’t like them…), but their enormous size is noteworthy. Only females can be picked up because males are too aggressive and will bite. They are easy to identify because their abdomens are bigger than their heads, like a certain American celebrity. If you are wondering what happens if you get bitten, let me tell you. I have first hand experience after one of the buggers decided to chomp on my hand. A big pimple-like welt forms that is itchy and stings at the same time. The itchiness and pain go away relatively quickly, but it takes forever (weeks) for the bump to disappear. I still have a mark a month later!
Of course, this list isn’t exhaustive of all the things we saw. More birds, lizards, geckos, squirrels (yes, they are here too!), frogs, toads, all sorts of impressive butterflies, spiders, and insects of all colours. We were spoiled!
Taking the Jungle Taxi
On the last day of our trek, we carefully slipped our way endlessly downhill from the mountaintops to a big, raging river for lunch. We took a dip in the powerful current before chowing down on nasi goreng. Then it was time to head back to the village of Bukit Lawang.
We had the choice of hiking all the way back, or testing out another, more refreshing adventure. We chose the second option: the jungle taxi.
A “jungle taxi” isn’t your average cab. In fact, it doesn’t involve cars at all! It’s the local talk for tubing down the Bohorok River. Three tubes are connected, with steerers in the front and back, us in the middle, and our backpacks safely stored in a waterproof bag. Unlike the calm waters at camp, this watery highway is lively. The journey back was an adrenaline-fueled rush, as we navigated swirling rapids and crashed through waves, surrounded by the breathtaking backdrop of dense jungle and towering cliffs. It was awesome! And a perfect way to cool down from the heavy, humid heat.
The final leg of the journey carried us through the village of Bukit Lawang. Since it was the weekend, EVERYONE was out enjoying the water. Many of them future navigators in training. Kids and teenagers would turn around to wave and say “Hello!”. A really beautiful way to be welcomed back to the world of humans.
Overall Thoughts
Overall, trekking through Gunung Leuser National Park and camping overnight in its vast, untamed wilderness has left an indelible mark on me. The experience of immersing myself so completely in nature, surrounded by the sounds of the jungle and the sight of its extraordinary wildlife, was both humbling and exhilarating. The challenge of navigating the dense trails, the thrill of spotting orangutans in their natural habitat, and the serenity of sleeping beneath the jungle canopy have deepened my appreciation for the beauty and fragility of this unique ecosystem. It’s a memory that will stay with me. A reminder of the incredible adventures that await when we step outside our comfort zones and embrace the unknown. The perfect plunge into our Indonesian adventure.
This is not an ad, but I wanted to share information about the tour company. It was important for me to choose an ethical company with local guides that truly care about the jungle and aren’t just there to make a quick buck off tourists. I booked a 2D1N trek with Local Guides for this reason and I was very impressed. Besides respecting the animals (not feeding them, keeping a distance, etc), our guide also collected any rubbish. He was so passionate and knowledgeable about everything in the jungle, including the animals, plants, and even policies. In addition, we arranged our transportation through them (picking us up from the airport in Medan and later dropping us off in Berastagi). It was also possible to stay at their hotel, Wisma Leuser Sibayak, when we arrived in the wee hours of the morning. Breakfast was included. I highly recommend booking with them!