Amid one of the most turbulent chapters in Champagne’s history, when small winemakers were struggling against economic hardships and the dominance of larger houses, cooperatives like Champagne Collet rose as a beacon of hope. These alliances empowered growers to reclaim control, uniting their efforts to produce and market their own sparkling masterpieces. I had the rare privilege of stepping behind the scenes at this historic house to uncover its fascinating role in shaping the region’s destiny. From delving into the stories of its revolutionary origins to savouring its exquisite gastronomic range, my visit offered a journey through time and taste. Keep reading to discover the rich history behind visiting Champagne Collet!
Menu
The Champagne Riots
Champagne Collet: Beginnings to Today
Into the Cellars
Le Musée des métiers du champagne
Tastings
Overall Thoughts
The Champagne Riots
The Champagne Riots of 1910–1911 were a defining moment in the history of France’s most iconic sparkling wine. It is a story born out of desperation and a fight for justice. At the heart of the unrest were the small winegrowers of the Champagne region. They were grappling with economic devastation after a disastrous harvest in 1910. Poor weather had decimated their crops, leaving growers with little to sell. Many stood at the brink of financial ruin. To make matters worse, some merchants were blending wine from outside Champagne—from the Loire Valley or even Algeria—and falsely labelling it as Champagne. This undermined the reputation of the region, squeezing growers out of their own industry.
The tension reached a boiling point in 1911, particularly in the village of Aÿ. Enraged growers stormed warehouses, set stockpiles of fraudulent wines ablaze, and destroyed the properties of merchants they believed complicit in these deceitful practices. The riots quickly spread across the region, capturing national attention and exposing the urgent need for reform. For the growers, this wasn’t just about survival. It was a battle to protect the authenticity and identity of Champagne itself, a product deeply tied to their culture and livelihoods.
The aftermath of the riots forced the French government to act. Strict regulations were introduced. The boundaries of the Champagne appellation were formally defined. Rigorous production standards were established to ensure that only sparkling wines made in the region could bear the name “Champagne.” These events also inspired the creation of cooperative houses, such as COGEVI (Coopérative Générale des Vignerons), which united small growers to collectively produce and market their wines.
The riots were a turning point that secured Champagne’s future as the world’s premier sparkling wine, eventually leading to the creation of the Champagne AOC in 1936.
Champagne Collet: Beginnings to Today
Raoul Collet was instrumental in advocating for small winegrowers after the Champagne Riots, leading to the creation of COGEVI in 1921 in Aÿ. This is the first viticultural cooperative of the region. It empowers growers by allowing them to produce and market their own Champagne, free from exploitation by larger houses.
Champagne Collet, launched as the cooperative’s premium label, showcasing the finest expressions of the growers’ terroirs. Named in honour of Collet’s vision, the brand stands as a symbol of the cooperative spirit, preserving the authenticity of Champagne while ensuring the independence of small producers. Today, Champagne Collet is a lasting testament to Raoul Collet’s legacy and the transformation he sparked in the industry. Its Art Deco-inspired visual identity also pays homage to this time while aluding to the grandeur of the Roaring Twenties.
Into the Cellars
150 hectares of vineyards from the collective are dedicated specifically for Champagne Collet. This includes 31 premier crus and 17 grand crus, with each parcel carefully chosen for its unique terroir. Wines are vinified separately by village (169!) ensuring each bottle represents the distinct characteristics of its origins. Their reserve wines are aged for up to 10 years, providing depth and complexity to blends.
19th-century cellars are a blend of brick and chalk; the perfect environment for the ageing process. Within these cellars, Champagne Collet stores some 600,000 bottles each year. They meticulously age their cuvées for a minimum of three years, up to at least seven for special releases.
The Aÿ production facility spans seven floors, each dedicated to a different stage of the process, from pressing to bottling. Another facility in Oger is even bigger! One of the standout features is the use of oak barrels for their Art Deco cuvée, giving layers of richness and depth.
My favourite part, though, is the cellar’s vinothèque. It holds a large collection of rare bottles, including vintages dating back to 1943. They can be spotted on the second row from the top, all the way to the right. There is also an impressive selection of large-format vintages too.
Le Musée des métiers du champagne
Champagne Collet brings history to life with Le Musée des Métiers du Champagne—a treasure trove nestled in the heart of their production complex. This captivating museum houses over 1,500 original tools and documents, each telling the story of the meticulous craftsmanship behind Champagne. It’s not just a collection. It’s an immersive journey through the hands-on artistry of generations of local producers.
Historic presses, vintage bottles, antique labelling machines, and old advertisements share a rare glimpse into the evolution of Champagne-making. The museum reveals the painstaking physical labour and precision that goes into every step of production, from vine to bottle. It’s a celebration of the passionate individuals who’ve dedicated their lives to perfecting the craft and preserving the legacy of Champagne.
The museum’s main room is a breathtaking space. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer sweeping views of the vineyards. In fact, the closest parcel produces the grapes for the exceptional Grand Cru Aÿ Collection Privée cuvée. Sipping the range here gave me a deeper connection to the terroir behind the bubbles.
Tastings
With 4 vins clairs and 6 premium champagnes, this was certainly an indulgent visit!
Vins Clairs
I had a rare opportunity to begin my tasting with vins clairs directly from the barrels. These still, high-acidity base wines provide a pure expression of the terroir and grape variety. They allow champagne producers and lucky visitors to appreciate the building blocks of the final blend!
Something particularly interesting for Champagne Collet is that their barrels come from different woods and different years. I tasted my way through some of the villages used in their Blanc de Blancs.
I started with a tasting of a 2022 Cramant 2022, aged in an oak barrel from Festigny (2014). It had an impressively creamy nose.
In contrast, a 2022 Avize aged in an oak barrel from Mailly (2016) had more citrus notes with a hint of woodiness.
The 2022 Villers-Marmery, aged in oak barrels from Argonne (2012) was much more mineral.
It is not only fascinating to think about how the characteristics of these wines will change over the years individually, but also how the Cellar Master can determine the finished assemblages! I also tasted the assemblage that will become the Blanc de Blancs. Although still acidic, it can almost pass at a Coteaux Champenois with its beautiful aromas and creamy mouthfeel. It will be bottled and left to age for another 5 years until it hits the market.
Champagne Collet Brut Art Déco Premier Cru
40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Meunier | 8g/L | Assemblage of 7 Grands Crus and 13 Premiers Crus | Aged for at least 4 years
The tasting started with the emblematic wine of the Maison. It is very charming and floral: think white flowers, lavender, and wildflower honey. Tropical pineapple, orchard fruits, and citrus zest hit the nose and the palate. It’s subtly smoky. A hint of salinity balances out the creaminess. It’s definitely a gastronomic wine!
Champagne Collet Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru
100% Chardonnay | 7g/L | Assemblage of 5 Grands Crus and 4 Premiers Crus | Aged for 5 years
A very interesting discovery that can hold its own with a meal, especially buttery fish. Enticing citrus leaf, candied orange peel, pink grapefruit, and buttery croissant on the nose. Buttery pastry and citrus continue in mouth, with a kick of spices and subtle smoke again. It still has an elegant lightness.
Champagne Collet Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru
100% Pinot Noir | 8g/L | Assemblage of 2 Premiers Crus from the Montagne de Reims | Aged for 5 years
Surprisingly zippy with tropical notes! I found mango, passion fruit, and grapefruit on the nose with a hint of rhubarb pie. The mouth is crunchy and creamy at the same time: think custard topped with green apple and lemon zest. I feel like this would be fun alongside fish crudo with cilantro oil.
Champagne Collet Millésime 2016
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay | 7g/L | Assemblage of 6 Grands Crus and 1 Premier Cru | Aged for 7 years
Lively and generous and gourmand. Buttery brioche with notes of quince and bergamot. A whiff of raspberry and hazelnut. A sprinkle of meringue. The mouth is perfectly creamy. 2016 was an exceptional year in Champagne and this cuvée really did it justice.
Champagne Collet Grand Cru Aÿ 2012 Collection Privée
100% Pinot Noir | 8 g/L | Grapes from the south-facing parcel overlooking the cellars. Lieu-dits: La Côte du Moulin and La Porte aux Brebis | Aged for 8 years
This is my favourite of the tasting, but unfortunately only around 6100 bottles were made. And they are pretty much sold out! Pure decadence with frangipani flowers on nose and galette des rois à la frangipane in mouth. But there’s a mouthwatering allusion to tartness with aromas of strawberry, pineapple, and citrus. The mouth has Collet’s signature creaminess with a refreshing minerality that adds brightness. Just gorgeous.
The tasting was even more special because I was standing in front of the very vines that produced this wonder!
Champagne Collet Esprit Couture 2014
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir | 7g/L | Assemblage of 5 Grands Crus and 5 Premiers Crus | Aged for 7 years
Esprit Couture is the most premium offering of Champagne Collet. It’s a sparkling ode to Haute Couture and The decadence of the 1920s. Expect buttery grilled peaches, poached apple, bouquets of flowers, and toasted pastry with a hint of salinity that will make you go back for more. The mouth is seductively silky.
Esprit Couture is not just an exceptional champagne, but it’s a visually beautiful piece of art. From the riddling to the bottle creation and packaging, every step of its production is by-hand. I was gifted the stopper decoration, a silver cord with an engraved tassel, that converts into a bracelet. A kind gesture!
Overall Thoughts
Overall, Champagne Collet is an impressive champagne that should be on the radar for gastronomy-lovers. While their Maison is not typically open to the public, I hope this article gives you more insight into their world. Their story is not just about quality wines. They are an important part of the region’s history, representing the craftsmanship and the passion of local winegrowers. To me, that is definitely something to cheers to.
A big thank you to Champagne Collet for this invitation.