Visiting Monticello Vineyards: My First Taste of Napa Valley

Earlier this year, I travelled across the globe to the legendary Napa Valley in California as a Fellow of the 2024 Wine Writers’ Symposium. My deep dive into this famous wine region kicked off with an invitation for a private visit to Monticello Vineyards, located in the Oak Knoll District. And what a fantastic, welcoming introduction to Napa it was. Read all about my experience visiting Monticello Vineyards below!

Menu

About Monticello Vineyards, Napa Valley

The Visit

The Wines

Overall Thoughts

About Monticello Vineyards, Napa Valley

A Bit of History

America’s wine-making history is older than you might think, dating back to the founding of the USA itself in the 1770s. The story begins with Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States, and his friendship with Filippo Mazzei, a physician and viticulturist from the Mazzei winemaking dynasty in Tuscany.

Inspired by his travels to Europe and his admiration for their wines, Jefferson became a fervent advocate of viticulture and envisioned America as a prominent wine-producing country. He invited his buddy, Mazzei, over to embark on several attempts to cultivate European grapevines at his estate in Virginia. Despite facing numerous challenges, including pest infestations and climate issues that thwarted his efforts, Jefferson’s passion for wine never waned. His efforts, though not immediately successful, laid an important cultural foundation for the future of American wine-making, influencing subsequent generations of vintners to continue the quest for producing fine wines in the United States.

Jefferson’s historic home is a symbol of his commitment to American viticulture. He named it Monticello, which means “little mountain” in Italian, due to its location on a hilltop in the Piedmont region of Virginia. It reflects his cosmopolitan outlook and his aspiration to create a refined and cultivated home that echoed the grandeur of European estates.

Monticello Vineyards, Napa Valley

Two hundred years later, Thomas Jefferson’s vision continues to inspire winemakers. Jay Corley, inspired by the Monticello estate, saw potential in the fertile land of Napa Valley for producing high-quality wines. He founded Napa Valley’s Monticello Vineyards in 1970, planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. His aim was to craft wines that could stand alongside the best in the world. The winery quickly gained a reputation for its dedication to traditional winemaking techniques and high standards, contributing significantly to the burgeoning reputation of Napa Valley as a premier wine-producing region.

Over the years, Monticello Vineyards expanded its operations and diversified its offerings, adding Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to its portfolio. The Corley family has maintained a hands-on approach, with Jay’s sons (Chris and Kevin) continuing his legacy. Today, Monticello Vineyards is renowned not only for its exceptional wines but also for its commitment to sustainability and stewardship of the land. The winery remains a one of the few family-owned and operated wineries in Napa Valley, reflecting the Corleys’ passion for viticulture and their dedication to producing wines that honour the heritage and vision of both Thomas Jefferson and Jay Corley.

The Visit

The Estate

Pulling up to the estate, a large Palladian-style mansion surrounded by perfectly manicured gardens impresses me. It is the original estate from the 70s, mirroring the Jefferson House in Virginia. A gorgeous fountain decorates the terrace, making it a romantic place for tastings! They also host events here.

After a warm greeting with a glass of Chardonnay, I toured the magnificent interior, which also reflects the Jefferson House. It is during this tour that I learned more about the Estate’s history and its inspiration.

The dining room is absolutely fascinating to me and stays rent-free in my mind! To start, the design, colours, and furniture are almost identical to Thomas Jefferson’s. Even though I am not American, it is exciting to feel like I am stepping into a President’s home!

Impressive large format bottles and exclusive vintages line the walls. As a history buff, I am enthralled by their links to the American Presidency…

That’s right, Monticello wines have been served in the White House on multiple occasions! It is interesting to learn that winemakers do not know about this honour until after the event. Monticello displays the menus for the banquets in which their wines were served. Let’s just say that I hope to get an invitation to a White House Dinner someday!

The White House connection doesn’t stop there. Bottles signed by previous Presidents and their First Ladies, photos, and other notable paraphernalia are on show. Regardless of politics, it is quite awe-inspiring to see items that have a connection with real, recent history. This is one of my favourite parts of my experience visiting Monticello Vineyards.

Vineyards

Monticello handcrafts its wines in small batches, from the best grapes of the distinct soils and microclimates of its five vineyards. These vineyards span the length of the Napa Valley, starting at the southern end in the Oak Knoll District and moving north to Yountville, Rutherford, and St. Helena.

Inspired by Burgundy, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the original grape varieties planted around the estate in the Oak Knoll District; the Home Ranch Vineyard. In fact, they surround the mansion and its gardens and one can easily walk over to them. Today, their Home Ranch Vineyard and Knollwood Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District are planted with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah vines. Cabernet Sauvignon sominates their State Lane Vineyard in Yountville, Tietjen Vineyard on Niebaum Lane in Rutherford, and Yewell Vineyard on Ehlers Lane in St. Helena.

My first time in Napa Valley, I soon learned that “clones” are an important part of the discussion. Interestingly, we never really talk about them in Europe… it’s all about the terroir: soils, climate, slope, etc. But in California, some winemakers say that clones have more of an effect on wine than terroir. I’m not an expert in grape-growing, so I don’t have too much of an opinion on this potentially divisive subject, but this level of detail can be interesting to wine enthusiasts. Monticello shares its clones on its website here.

Also interesting, in Napa, I noticed that winemakers talk about “Blocks”, which are similar to what we label as Lieu-Dits in France. They are a specific part of a vineyard or region recognized for its own specificities.

Production

Before showing the cellars, I want to share some of Monticello’s ongoing environmental practices. They run on 100% solar power and sustainable agriculture. Two vineyards already have organic certification and a third one is on the way! A small herd of sheep maintains weeds during the dormant season. Some bottles use lighter weight bottles to reduce emissions. They no longer use styrofoam, instead opting for environmentally-friendly pulp packaging. And water usage is very carefully monitored to reduce waste.

The Vat Room

Visiting Monticello Vineyards’ vat “room” kind of blew my mind. In that, it is not actually a room… but rather, outdoors! This is the first time in my life that I have seen this.

The vats are all temperature-controlled, of course. There are a lot of them, in different sizes. They are out here because of some tricky rules about production space square-footage. It was memorable seeing the vats out in the open like this, with the mountains behind them.

The Cellars

Monticello’s state-of-the-art cellar sits above-ground. It houses approximately 1,200 barrels of French and American oak. Before my visit, I have never seen barrels stacked like this before; a first look at how Napa Valley winemakers aren’t afraid to break away from the European norm. The room has a meticulously controlled environment that allows for precise temperature and humidity regulation, crucial for the delicate ageing process.

My eyes were drawn to a particular section of the cellars, with larger barrels and a cement egg. It’s in these vessels that new and exciting experiments are happening. I had a very cool opportunity to taste these directly too. The egg holds a Clone 95 Chardonnay (which is one of the most prevalent in Burgundy).

I also tasted two different Cabernet Sauvignons. Both from the same vintage and in the same style barrel, but from different regions (Oak Knoll District vs St. Helena). They were completely different! New to Napa wines, this tasting was an incredibly insightful experience.

The Wines

Relatively new to Napa wines, they are a world away from what we are used to in Europe. Even though they might be the same grape varieties (and even the same clones!), the climate, earth, ground cover, oak, and other factors lead to completely different wines. A striking difference is the boldness of Napa wines. They pack a punch in aromas and flavours. And the alcohol content is higher as well.

To me, Monticello’s wines are a great gateway to Napa for those used to French wines. Their French-inspired approach makes them very accessible!

Corley Reserve Chardonnay, Block 1 Clone 96, 2021

The richest of their three estate-grown Chardonnays from this vintage, I had no idea that Chardonnay can taste like this. It is the very first Napa Valley wine I tasted during my visit and it is a treat.

Summery aromas of melon hit the nose, intermingled with lemon zest and juicy grapefruit. I got a hint of crème brûlée too. The mouth is round and creamy but lively at the same time. It has a nice length. Overall, a really lovely and expressive Chardonnay that can accompany a wine variety of dishes.

Corley Proprietary Red Wine 2008

44% Cabernet Franc, 38% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon | Varieties vinified separately for 12 months in barrel. After slow-blending over a year, 30 months in French Oak barrels

Like a late-summer picnic by the campfire. A Bordeaux-blend with powerful aromas of blackberry and cassis, black chocolate, espresso, and toasted wood. It is equally as powerful in mouth with a fleshy mouthfeel and just the right amount of tannins. The finish lingers in a good way. I would love this with grilled game meat or BBQ lamb!

Corley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

100% Cabernet Sauvignon | 24 months in French Oak | Tietjen Vineyard on Niebaum Lane (Rutherford) and old vine Ehlers Lane Vineyard, St. Helena planted in 1970

A very limited edition wine that you must add to your collection if you can! Enticingly rich aromas of berry pie (think strawberry, raspberry, and cherry) with mulled wine spices and dark chocolate. The mouth is velvety and elegantly structured. This would be amazing with very rich dark chocolate desserts.

Monticello Tietjen Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

100% Cabernet Sauvignon | Unblended, unfiltered | Vines planted in 1980, Tietjen Vineyard, Rutherford

Ok, WOW. I fell in love with this one. 1998 was a difficult, wet year in Napa Valley with harvest happening much later than usual (interestingly, unlike France, harvest dates are not pre-determined by a governing AOC body!). The results of that year are characterized by elegant wines with concentrated fruit flavours, personality, and complexity.

More than two decades later, this wine continues to delight. The nose shares aromas of fig jam and confit black cherries with whispers of garrigue. Dark chocolate is prominent, along with more subtle notes of star anise, vanilla, and black pepper. The mouth is full-bodied and velvety, perfect alongside a classic côte de bœuf. A truly memorable wine.

Overall Thoughts

Overall, I absolutely loved my visit to Monticello Vineyards. The estate itself is beautiful and authentic; to me, a breath of fresh air from the more touristic sites of Downtown Napa. It felt like a bridge between the Old World and the New.

In addition to fantastic wines, I was warmly welcomed into their universe. My experience was a very insightful first-hand look into Napa Valley wines, as well as the work and passion that goes behind them. I highly recommend visiting Monticello Vineyards on your next Napa Valley adventure!

A big thank you to Kevin for this invitation and for such a perfect experience!

Leave a Reply