Served to royalty and the favourite of James Bond, Champagne Bollinger is one of the most famous and prestigious Houses in Champagne. Nestled in the picturesque village of Aÿ, it has remained a symbol of elegance and finesse for more than two centuries. It’s not only known for its rich and distinctive wines. Bollinger is one of the last independent Champagne Houses and one of the only large Maisons to grow the vast majority of the grapes used in its blends. In recent years, Bollinger has continued to build its reputation for fine wines with a focus on sustainability, obtaining B-Corp certification in 2023. I recently had the opportunity to step into their world. Read more about my exclusive look behind the scenes while visiting Champagne Bollinger in this article!
On the Menu
About Champagne Bollinger
B-Corp Certification
Into the Vineyards
The Barrel Room
Visiting the Cellars
The Tasting
Overall Thoughts
About Champagne Bollinger
The Beginnings
The story of Champagne Bollinger intertwines family, business, passion, strong women, and vines.
It begins on February 6, 1829 (aptly written on all the labels) when three champagne-lovers banded together to found their own Maison, Renaudin-Bollinger & Cie. Jacques Joseph Bollinger, originally German, was working for another champagne house. Paul Renaudin was a local wine enthusiast. Athanase de Villermont was the count of Aÿ, whose name does not appear because French law at the time forbade nobility from having business interests. Bollinger was in charge of sales, while Renaudin managed the cellars.
Shortly after, Renaudin passed away and Joseph Bollinger had married the daughter of his buddy, the Count. Eventually, his grandsons — Joseph and Georges — continued the business and changed its name to Champagne Bollinger. They expanded the vineyards and also received a Royal Warrant by Queen Victoria in 1884, which is still in place today.
Almost a century later, Georges’ son, Jacques, became head of the House. He married the charismatic Elisabeth Bollinger (née Law de Lauriston-Boubers), known as “Lily” to her familiars. Elisabeth is the most well-known figure in this story and for good reason.
Elisabeth Bollinger
“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it—unless I’m thirsty.”
Elisabeth (Lily) Bollinger
Taking over after her husband’s death in 1941, Elisabeth is known for her impressive business and marketing prowess. It is clear how much she loved her work and champagne, through her continued expansion of the vineyards, world travel to promote the brand, and memorable quotes like the one above.
The iconic Bollinger R.D. cuvée was her creation: short for Récemment Dégorgé (“Recently Disgorged”), this innovative champagne was unique in having been aged for years on its lees. It was a huge success and paved the way for popular styles today!
She also cleverly created the first Vieilles Vignes Françaises (“French Old Vines”) cuvées from Bollinger’s vines that remained miraculously untouched by phylloxera (more on that below).
On top of all this, she often gave back to others and was incredibly loved by the community. She knew the names of all the employees and could often be seen bicycling through the vines.
Champagne Bollinger Today
After her passing in 1977, Elisabeth’s nephews, Claude d’Hautefeuille and Christian Bizot, succeeded her. They continued her legacy and developed the brand internationally. Ghislain de Mongolfier, the great-grandson of the founder, eventually took the helm, also serving as the president of the Association Viticole Champenoise and leading the Commission of Champagne. He was the last family member to run the company.
Today, Champagne Bollinger is headed by Charles-Armand de Belenet, formerly of Martell Mumm & Perrier-Jouët. It is part of the Société Jacques Bollinger Group, whose holdings in France also include Champagne Ayala, Maison Chanson in Burgundy, Langlois-Chateau in the Loire Valley and Delamain in Cognac. They acquired Ponzi Family Winery in Willamette Valley, Oregon, and invested in Tapanappa Winery, in Wrattonbully, Australia.
NB: Visiting Champagne Bollinger is not always possible. This particular visit is not available to the general public.
B-Corp Certification
An important part of visiting Champagne Bollinger was to learn more about the CSR of the Maison. Since its beginnings, Champagne Bollinger strives to preserve traditional savoir-faire. A big part of that is related to sustainability. To formally recognize its commitments, Bollinger formalized plans for its Bicentenary in 2029, as well as a new environmental and societal charter. They recently obtained B Corp certification in September 2023.
B Corp is a rigorous international certification that represents high standards for social, societal, and environmental performance. Bollinger’s new certification rests on three pillars: its people, the earth, and its roots.
Bollinger’s commitments to its people include refining and preserving savoir-faire, improving workplace culture, and ensuring the well-being of its teams. For the earth, there is a big focus on sustainability and biodiversity, as well as reducing its carbon footprint, and developing its circular economy. In terms of its roots, Bollinger wants to continue its family heritage and support the local ecosystem.
Into the Vineyards
Champagne Bollinger’s signature of powerful and complex champagnes comes from its affinity for Pinot Noir. Growing over generations, Bollinger now owns 180 hectares of vines, 85% Grand and Premier Crus. They are spread across 7 separate vineyards: Aÿ, Avenay, Tauxières, Louvois and Verzenay for Pinot Noir, Cuis in the Côte des Blancs for Chardonnay, and Champvoisy in Vallée de la Marne for Meunier. Bollinger is one of the only large Maisons to grow the majority (68%) of the grapes used in its blends.
One of its most famous plots is the Côte aux Enfants, which is planted with 100% Grand Cru Pinot Noir. It got its name because it is so steep that, historically, only children could harvest the grapes (obviously this is no longer the case). This plot is used for some of Bollinger’s most exclusive cuvées, like the namesake Coteaux Champenois.
Clos Saint-Jacques
After the history lesson, visiting Champagne Bollinger begins in the vineyards. But not just any vineyard. I was brought to Clos Saint-Jacques. This is one of two walled vineyards owned by Champagne Bollinger that houses vines that have never succumbed to phylloxera. The other Clos is Chaudes-Terres. Phylloxera is a horrendous insect, related to aphids, that nearly wiped out the global supply of grapes in the 1930s.
These miraculous ungrafted (francs de pied) Grand Cru Pinot Noir vines are used to produce the incredibly exclusive Vieilles Vignes Françaises cuvée. Only about 2500 bottles are made per vintage.
Of course, each vine is tended by hand, which is standard in Champagne. What I find most interesting about this parcel is that the vines are not in rows. Instead, they are planted on spikes, ancient-style, and reproduced using a form of layering called provignage. This is how vineyards were planted before phylloxera and the growing use of machinery. It is fascinating to see something so historical in real life. And since it is mid-June, I can see the grape blossoms turning into baby bunches!
The Barrel Room
My visit continues in the magnificent facilities on the hilltops of the village. The Champagne Bollinger mansion, acquired from another Maison, has been a part of the production site since the early 1900s.
Champagne Bollinger has continued to use oak barrels since its founding in 1829. With an impressive collection of 4000 (the largest in Champagne!), they are also the last Maison to employ its own in-house cooper.
Barrels need constant care, especially with many of these being decades old (between 5 and 35 years old, with an average age of 20). An in-house cooper (Gaël Chanut) makes sure that this can be done efficiently and timely to the exact specifications of the House. It is quite complicated: each barrel and even each stave is unique and needs to be repaired sur mesure.
The barrels come from Burgundy. Domaine Chanson (part of the Bollinger Group) provides many of them. Other big names like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Drouhin, and Jadot also pitch in. Bollinger owns its own cork forest in Cuis (Côtes des Blancs), and has begun to use wood there as well.
I learned all about Bollinger’s preferred cooperage processes. Notably, Bollinger likes to mix old traditions with new technology. For example, they continue to use chestnut branches wrapped around barrel ends to lure insects away from the oak. These are easier and less costly to replace. On the other hand, each barrel has a barcode that tracks literally every detail about the barrels and the contents inside.
At the present, the actual barrel room is not open for visits. It is undergoing renovations to welcome even more barrels. However, it is possible to barrels being cleaned or cured in the sun during the summer, across the street from the main mansion.
Visiting the Cellars
Champagne Bollinger’s head winemaker, Denis Bunner, is one of the top 50 winemakers in France, according to Le Figaro. This is no small feat. He not only oversees the annual production of about 3 million bottles. He also manages 6 km of cellars, lined with some 12 million bottles. The oldest parts of the cellars date back to the 18th century. They have survived fires from the Champagne winegrowers’ revolt in 1911, as well as two World Wars. Visiting Champagne Bollinger is really like stepping into history.
Personally, I was wowed by the staggering amount of magnums (1,5L) and Jeroboams (3L) in the cellars. These are still riddled by hand. The “head riddler” has been doing this for a mind-blowing 40 years! For context, many quit after less than 5 years due to how hard is is on the wrists…
The Reserve Magnums
These cellars are unlike any other of the big Champagne Houses. A key difference is their extensive collection of reserve magnums. They are the proud owners of over one million of them, with ages ranging from 5-15 years, organized by grape variety and year. In line with other Champagne Houses, these reserve wines are blended with the recent harvest to create consistent wines that have the same taste every year. 3000 of these bottles are stored in their own special oenothèque, or wine library: La Resérve.
The wine library is home to a colourful and sparkling mosaic by Sicilian artist Luigi La Ferla. This work, “La Gestation” (2012), is an original piece that represents his vision of champagne and its production.
Unlike barrels, bottle ageing takes place in a relatively low-oxygen environment, allowing for a slower and more nuanced development of flavour. Traditional cork and agrafe stoppers allow a tiny amount of oxygen to filter in through microscopic pores. This adds complexity without overwhelming the wines.
The reserve magnums are given about a quarter of the usual prise de mousse. At the beginning of the year, eight employees open the required magnums — without disgorging — to add to the non-vintage Special Cuvée blend. This adds a little bit of lees for a deeper, more complex flavour. Each magnum is sniffed before pouring so make sure that they are in top condition. The amount of work that goes into Bollinger’s “entrée gamme” is truly impressive.
Galerie 1829
Almost 15 years ago, an intern was helping to take inventory of the cellars. They stumbled on a secret, hidden room filled with very old bottles, many of which are still intact. Labels and archives helped piece together the vintages and information about these incredible finds. This inspired the Galerie 1829 project.
Galerie 1829 is Bollinger’s second wine library. It showcases 65 significant vintages since the founding of the House in 1829. A special focus is on the Bollinger R.D. , Vieilles Vignes Françaises, and red Coteaux Champenois. Some of the most notable wines include:
- Bollinger R.D. 1973 served at the wedding of Princess Diana and Prince Charles in 1981
- Multiple vintages from the James Bond movie franchise (eg, Bollinger R.D. 1975 from A View to Kill)
- Pre- and peri- war champagne (such as 1924 and 1937)
- The post-war 1945 vintage that marks the first one made by Elisabeth Bollinger
- The very first Vieilles Vignes Françaises (1969), featured front and center
- Bollinger’s oldest red wine, a Bouzy dating back to 1895
- 1928, considered one of the greatest Champagne vintages of all time
- The most fascinating “CB14” : eleven of the very first bottles produced by Champagne Bollinger (then Renaudin-Bollinger & Cie) in 1830!
The bottles are still in pristine condition and are drinkable. Apparently, the 1928 vintage is still fantastic. This part of the cellars is arguably the most fascinating and also includes a display case of bottles throughout the years. I can spend an entire day here! Definitely a highlight of visiting Champagne Bollinger.
The Tasting
My visit ends with a tasting of three cuvées, one of which is a new release! All were tasted alongside food, but the last one was paired with a meal at the local gastronomic restaurant, Calsis.
Champagne Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut
60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Meunier | Dosage between 7-8g/L | Cellar aged for 30 months (twice as long as required by appellation regulations) | 85% Grand and Premier Crus
It is definitely not my first time tasting this cuvée. It is, in fact, one of my favourite Big Maison non-vintage champagnes. What I love about it is its wonderfully complex aromas. Expect juicy citrus with toasted brioche, buttery grilled peaches, and baked apple with cinnamon. The mouth is velvety with a nice length. Brioche flavours continue, along with nuts and pear. It’s deep, rich, and gourmande.
Champagne Bollinger PN AYC18
100% Pinot Noir | Dosage 6g/L | Cellar aged for twice as long as required by appellation regulations | Predominantly from Aÿ | Base year is 2018, but also includes reserve magnum wines dating back to 2009
Bollinger’s PN range gives reverence to Pinot Noir, the Maison’s favourite grape. Relatively new, each new edition highlights one main Cru and one vintage (NB: the base year is blended with Pinot Noir reserve wines, so it technically a non-vintage champagne). AYC18 is the fourth edition, showcasing the specificities of the Aÿ terroir, the principal cru in the blend. It is predominantly from the 2018 base year.
2018 is a great vintage in Champagne. Despite a year of roller-coaster weather, the yields were abundant and the harvest early, with very concentrated grapes. And this wine reflects such a lauded year. Deep golden in colour, it offers tantalizing aromas of candied citrus and spiced quince jam, floral honey, vanilla, and marzipan. The mouth is creamy and rich with an energizing brightness; beautifully balanced. A showstopping Blanc de Noirs that can be enjoyed now or in a few years.
Champagne Bollinger La Grande Année 2015
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay | Dosage 8g/L | Fermentation entirely in oak barrels and aged with natural cork for more than twice the time required by the appellation | Blend of 11 Grand Crus
La Grande Année is the vintage range of Champagne Bollinger. They only produce these champagnes in exceptional years, without using reserve wines. La Grande Année 2015 is the latest release, from earlier this year.
2015 is regarded as a fantastic year in Champagne. Almost all the Big Maisons (and many small producers) made vintage bubblies from this year. Which is great, because I personally love it! 2015 is particularly important for Bollinger and this wine reflects that:
“The 2015 has captured the Bollinger style more than any vintage. More opulent, more powerful, with Pinot Noir at centre stage. Vinified in barrel, it showcases the characteristics of an exceptional year.”
Denis Bunner – Wine Director
The family’s forest in Cuis, overlooking the vines, is the source of inspiration for this cuvée. Wood from this land was even used for the barrel ageing. The resulting Champagne is like a refreshing walk in the forest on a midsummer day. Woodland berries like blackcurrant and raspberry intermingle with delicate woody aromas, Mirabelle plum, vanilla, and honey. The mouth is enticingly generous and rich. The Mirabelle flavours continue, along with citrus and a cheeky minerality. Incredibly gourmande, it holds its own alongside a meal — particularly meat like beef. Which is actually how I enjoyed it!
Overall Thoughts
Visiting Champagne Bollinger offers a unique opportunity to witness firsthand the blend of tradition and modernity that defines this iconic house. Between rolling vineyards and ancient cellars, it is fascinating to uncover the secrets behind one of the world’s most revered Champagne houses. 200 years of meticulous craftsmanship and passionate dedication can be tasted in each sip. It might be a Big Maison, but visiting Champagne Bollinger really shows the human side of the wines; it is not a generic corporate juggernaut. Already a fan of these champagnes, I now have an even deeper appreciation for the brand.
Overall, my visiting Champagne Bollinger is a celebration of history, craftsmanship, and a commitment to a better future, embodied in every bottle of their exquisite Champagne. Cheers to that!
