In the Champagne region, just a stone’s throw away from Épernay, is a charming country house nestled on the slopes of the Marne. Hostellerie La Briqueterie is the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of the capital of Champagne. Owned by the Beauvallon Collection group and member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux association, a visit is a step into a world of excellence and refinement. They recently finished extensive renovations, just in time for anniversary celebrations with my love. Of course, I have to share this experience: divine dining at Hostellerie Briqueterie!
Menu
The Estate
The Dining Experience
Overall Throughts
The Estate
Hostellerie La Briqueterie is a hidden paradise in the bucolic village of Vinay. Vine-covered hillsides overlook the gorgeous 3 ha estate, which was once an ancient brick manufacturer for the region.
It was converted into a 3-star hotel in 1973, and eventually moved up the luxury ladder over the years. Today, it is a 5-star 40-room establishment, complete with a bistro, fine-dining restaurant, spa, pool, and gorgeous gardens. It recently reopened after several months of extensive renovations.
For this visit, we only came for a meal, but received an invitation to return to the spa, which I am very excited to do!
Exterior
From the street, the estate looks rather nondescript, hidden behind a walled garden. But pulling into the gate, we were wowed with beautiful nostalgic architecture and lush landscaping. The parking is cleverly hidden to the side as to not obstruct the view.
A little gate opens to the crown jewel of the property, the gardens. Here, guests can enjoy the sun-drenched terraces or meander in the enchanting rose garden, enjoying the perfumed air. Fountains dance under ancient trees.
Towards the back of the garden is a labyrinth of interesting aromatic herbs and produce, used by the chef in the restaurant. There were things I have never heard of before like orange mint and strawberry mint that really did smell like their names!
Interior
The interior is absolutely sumptuous. The new renovations put focus on French craftsmanship, mixing contemporary with cosy decor. Vintage objects with works by up-and-coming artists.
There are several lounging areas with very comfortable seating and magnificent fireplaces. Iconic champagnes of the region line the walls in a chic display. Guests can order these from the bar to sip on convivially within the grounds.
The fine-dining restaurant is classic and dignified. White-clothed tables enjoy romantic views of the grounds and surrounding hills thanks to a large bay window in the centre and many smaller ones around the room. I particularly like the tiger-print curtains that add a touch of contemporary to the space.
The Dining Experience
The in-house gastronomic fine-dining restaurant magnifies the delicacies of French cuisine while incorporating elements from Asia. Headed by Cheffe Nawal Rezagui, it is recommended in the Michelin Guide. The menu is seasonal, focused on the local terroir, and enhanced by ingredients grown in the garden. Of course, they have an impressive selection of champagnes on their wine list — about a dozen pages! Yes, wines from other regions are also available.
Speaking of the menu, it is possible to choose between several options. Diners can chose their main and dessert in the 3-course Menu Découverte. The 5-course Menu Dégustation is a surprise menu which must be ordered by the whole table. Alternatively, it is possible to order à la carte.
We both chose the Menu Découverte and ordered the same dishes.
Pour commencer
Our meal commenced strongly. Three amuse-bouches were promptly presented to us. First was a crispy roll of salmon mousse with chives; very flavourful. A tart with a savoury Panna Cotta, spring peas, and mint was delightfully refreshing. Then there was a hash brown with confit onion, which added nice contrast.
A fabulous brioche and artistically shaped butter were left on the table for us. This bread is absolutely divine and I could not stop eating it!
We were then presented with white asparagus (’tis the season) and miso sabayon with an herbed oil. Absolutely gorgeous! I loved the velvety sauce and the flavours were incredible together. I can eat bowls and bowls of this.
Entrée
We then moved on to French trout with marinated turnips and radishes. An addictive dill and rhubarb sauce was poured at the table. The saucière was left at the table so that we could continue to help ourselves. The trout has the most incredible texture, like butter. Cheffe kindly shared how she makes it, which includes several different preparation and cooking techniques.
I didn’t take a photo of the bread, but we were offered individual freshly baked buns in several flavours. I had a poppy seed bun and it was fantastic. It had a hint of lemon that I could not resist.
Plat
The main dishes arrived under cloches, which were removed simultaneously in a graceful, dance-like manner. I absolutely ADORED this!
Inside was monkfish with pressé of fermented cabbage, olive powder and a black curry sauce, served at the table again. I ordered this because I love all the ingredients individually, even though I thought the combination sounded unusual: I never had fish with cabbage until I moved to France. The combination never really appealed to me so I didn’t actually try it until a week ago, when I didn’t have a choice (I liked it). I never even thought about having cabbage with curry either. Or olives with curry. Or olives with cabbage. But somehow, the flavours were wonderful together. The cabbage wasn’t tangy like sauerkraut so it wasn’t overpowering. I liked the texture and that it added a hint of sweetness to the dish. The curry added a comforting earthiness. The olives brought depth. Pleasantly surprising and delicious.
Cheese
Cheese is an optional add-on. With the copious amount of food we had already eaten, we decided not to order any. But, I want to point out the amazing chariot de fromages that made it very difficult to say “no”. They have a decent selection of French classics, like époisses (my favourite) and langres. I am getting hungry again looking at these.
Dessert
We received a very touching surprise during dessert to celebrate our anniversary. This was quite unexpected and very appreciated! I am still smiling about this.
The main dessert included meringue flavoured with pepper from Timut, strawberries (from the garden!) scented with lime, crème de foin (hay cream), and sorbet. This dish is absolutely delightful. Not too sweet and incredibly light, with the perfect bouquet of flavours. Definitely one of the highlights!
Coffee
We finished the meal with espressos and mignardises, which were pâte de fruits (pear and berries) and coconut chocolate truffles.
I absolutely loved the sugar presentation. Instead of the standard sugar cubes, we got… rock candy! Very nostalgic and I may have eaten one like I did during my childhood… these were one of my favourite candies growing up. Please don’t tell my dentist.
The Wine
For the wine, we decided to go with cult favourite Champagne J-M Sélèque Solessence Extra Brut. Made pretty much down the street from Hostellerie La Briqueterie, it is a beautiful celebration of terroir. The assemblage is 50% Chardonnay, 40% Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir, 50% reserve. Dosage 2g/L and disgorgement September 2021. This cuvée is perfectly multifaceted, enjoyed as an aperitif and as a pairing for our meal. In fact, it worked well for almost all the dishes.
The nose is elegantly complex: brioche aux pralines with white spring blossoms, yellow apple, stone fruits like nectarine and apricot, a hint of lime and red currants. The mouth is playful; a balance between creamy lusciousness and chalky liveliness. The finish is deliciously long. A winner, from start to finish.
Overall Thoughts
Overall, my visit to Hostellerie La Briqueterie was absolutely wonderful. A big “thank you” goes to the staff for making this such a memorable anniversary! The meal was absolutely divine, the service was outstanding — perfectly attentive and welcoming. The decor and the grounds are stunning. I found that every detail is taken care of and the French art of living is brought to life. I highly recommend Hostellerie La Briqueterie for anyone looking for a bit of refinement off the beaten path.
