Named the “brandy of the gods” by Victor Hugo, Cognac is the world’s most coveted spirit, a symbol of refinement and status. But it is also the name of the city that birthed this beverage. Rich in history, the city of Cognac is also the birthplace of one of France’s most illustrious kings: François I. And I was invited to discover his actual home! This is my experience visiting Château de Cognac.
Menu: Visiting Château de Cognac
Château de Cognac and its History
Cognac Blues Passions: Groove au Château
Visiting Château de Cognac and its History
Introduction
In Old Cognac, on the banks of the Charente River is the imposing structure of Château de Cognac. It has a bit of a tumultuous history. It was originally built as a fortress designed to stop English and Viking invasions more than 1000 years ago and was eventually taken over by Richard the Lionheart. Five centuries later, it became the birthplace of King François I. It passed hands several times afterwards and was destined to be destroyed during the French Revolution. But a twist of fate happened when the Baron Otard discovered that the thick walls and heavy humidity were perfect for storing his eaux-de-vie… he bought the Château in 1795 and the rest is history! To this day, it is still the home of Otard Cognac. In 2012 it became the birthplace of D’Ussé Cognac, created by Jay-Z. Both are part of Bacardi.
But more about the cognacs later. Château de Cognac was recently awarded a trophy for Best Of Wine Tourism 2023. And for very good reasons! The history of its cognac is related to the history of France, and even the history of North America. Unique to this Cognac visit, I had the chance to step back in time… There were many interesting discoveries during my tour, so I will only point out a few of my favourite highlights. There is lots to discover during a visit!
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Exterior
My visit started in the picturesque Louise de Savoie Court. Named after the mother of François I, this is a comfortable outdoor seating area within the walls of the castle. A working fountain and tropical plants add a relaxing atmosphere to the space. It also acts as a venue for cocktail receptions.
This area then leads to a more austere inner courtyard. It marks the entrance to the oldest part of the castle, built in the Middle Ages. It is interesting to note that the Château, like most other buildings in Cognac, are built out of the local white chalk (similar to Champagne). The walls are blackened because of fungus that likes the fumes (angel’s share) released by cognac as it ages. Harmless to humans, Baudoinia compniacensis is literally getting drunk off of the evaporating alcohol… and easily marks which buildings are ageing this fine brandy!
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Interior: Salle François I
The first room I visited was the King’s private apartments! François I was in fact born in this room in 1494, later becaming the King of France in 1515. He remained fond of this Château and often visited throughout his reign. He later enlarged and improved it to fit the lifestyle of the King and his court. It features a magnificent fireplace and a large balcony with beautiful (and strategic) views of the Charente River.
Today, the apartments contain art featuring the monarch. It also hosts Cognac Otard’s most exclusive bottles under lock and key (note that they are dummy bottles): King’s Collection. From right to left: Only eight decanters of CUVEE N°1 were released. It is a blend of two ancestral eaux-de-vie, stored for decades in Le Paradis cellar. This cellar contains the rarest/oldest/best eaux-de-vie. CUVEE N°2 is also a limited edition — 288 bottles. It contains a rare unblended eau-de-vie from a very old batch of Grande Champagne. The Master Blender developed CUVEE N°3 is from a selection of old eaux-de-vie from Le Château. It comes in a mouth-blown crystal decanter inspired by the finery of the King.
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The Oldest Part of the Castle
The next room I visited was also the oldest. If you look closely in the photos, you might notice that there are two fireplaces on top of each other. This is because there used to be two separate floors. Over the years, the top floor was destroyed and the stairway disintegrated. Due to the French Revolution, the coat of arms above the fireplace lost its head. Vandalism and destruction of royal effigies was rampant, in defiance of the monarchy. To me, the ruins added a bit of mysticism to the castle.
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Commemorating François I
François I was an important figure in history, not just in France, but around the world. He was a patron of the arts, unified and standardised the French language, introduced the Renaissance to France from Italy, and oversaw French colonial expansion in North America, just to name a few accomplishments. He also built/financed a slew of other famous French buildings like the Louvre Palace, Château de Chambord, and Paris’ Hôtel de Ville. Part of my visit focused on these, and also his family life. His mother, sister, and wives played important roles in his life.
On my visit, I noticed salamanders carved everywhere. Also spotted in Château de Chambord, this amphibian is the symbol of François I. In Medieval times, salamanders were considered magical creatures. Being able to survive on land and in water, it was believed that they could also withstand fire. The King’s slogan Nutrisco et Extinguo often accompanies this animal, which translates loosely as “I feed on the good fire and extinguish the bad”. The idea is that the King wants to protect his people, to extinguish evil and withstand (or even feed on!) a force as destructive as flames.
This part of the visit passed through what used to be the royal stables for the King’s horse. There is little information about the horse’s name… I thought that this room was particularly clever, with an official portrait of the King on his trusty steed.
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Horses Entrance
Of course, you can’t have horses prancing in and out of the castle. Instead, horses and their riders had a separate entrance. This vaulted space turns at a right angle and leads to the famous Saint-Jacques towers overlooking the Charente riverbank, which as known as the old entrance to the city.
Horses no longer reside in the Château. Instead, this space now displays busts and works of famous (and historically confirmed) visitors. These include Voltaire and Leonardo da Vinci. And various kings and members of royalty, of course.
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State’s Room & Guard’s Room
The castle visit/history tour ended in the sumptuous States Room and Guard’s Room. Originally two separate rooms, they are now opened to form an extraordinary grand hall. The style of architecture here is quite different from the rest of the Château. In 1515, François I commissioned Leonardo da Vinci to design these rooms so that he could receive his guests.
The walls here are noticeably not black from drunken fungus. They are cleaned every decade or so for aesthetic reasons and to show off some very interesting wall features… There are etchings all over the limestone walls, from names to bas-reliefs. They date back to colonial wars in Canada, when this part of the castle was turned into a prison for war criminals (aka the British)! Sinister times indeed.
Today, this part of the castle is used for receptions and weddings. I celebrated Groove au château here, but more on that later!
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The Cellars
When Baron Otard de la Grange visited Château de Cognac for the first time, he immediately through the conditions were perfect for ageing his eaux-de-vie. Located in the lower vaults of the castle, at the same level of the Charente River, the relative humidity reaches 90%. The 3 metre thick walls keep the temperature at a constant 15°C.
The eaux-de-vie are kept in french oak barrels crafted from wood from the Limousin and Troncais forests. They are very selective of the wood, using pieces from certain ages of trees. Surprisingly, there are thick cobwebs everywhere — but fear not! They spiders eat nasty bugs that can destroy the barrels. It is a natural protection system.
These cellars were particularly special for me, because this is where I was able to taste Otard’s range of cognacs. There is nothing like sipping cognac from its source!
I also had a chance to peep into Le Paradis cellar… I mentioned earlier that this is the most special ageing cellar. Locked behind iron gates, the very finest (and often the oldest) aged Cognacs are in casks and demijohns. This tiny fraction of the total production is the most prized stock, reserved for generations. There are even cognacs here dating back to the 1800s.
But these aren’t the only cellars! D’Ussé Cognac is also aged within these walls. However, they are above ground in the dry cellars. This gives them a different flavour profile, that I will discuss later. On display was a giant version of their logo, inspired by the Cross Of Lorraine. A symbol for honour, courage, and perseverance, the Cross of Lorraine was used to represent Free France during World War II.
The cellar tour also included a visit to an interactive portion that described the region, grapes, and cognac-making process. Even how they build the barrels!
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Tastings
Tasting cognacs directly in the cellars is a whole other experience. The atmosphere (and maybe the humidity) brings a new level to the tasting experience. It is really magical and something that you should do at least once in your life! In the Château de Cognac cellars, I tasted Baron Otard VSOP, XO Gold, and Extra 1795.
Baron Otard VSOP
I admittedly skip over VSOP most of the time, so this was a pleasant discovery for me. This cognac was relatively easy to drink, fruity, floral, with hints of vanilla. It is an excellent introduction to anyone new to cognac. I think it is great for summer due to its lightness and fruity notes. It has a nice mouthfeel too.
Baron Otard XO Gold
XO Gold is recognized as a particularly fantastic Cognac, winning numerous awards throughout recent years. And for good reason. It is deliciously complex with notes of plum, honey, violet, and leather. Another nice discovery.
Baron Otard Extra 1795
Made exclusively with Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie, this is a classically elegant cognac. It has a rich and complex bouquet of dried fruits, orange zest, woody aromas of cigar box, and pleasant rancio. It might be a bit too intense if you are new to cognac, but it would be the perfect accompaniment to a good Cuban cigar.
Cognac D’Usse VSOP
I also had a chance to try Cognac D’Usse VSOP in Le LYS Bar. It is characteristic of a dry cellar ageing: less smooth than the Otard range, with spicy woody notes. Designed for cocktails, it is produced for the American market. In France, it is only available at the Château de Cognac and through select online retailers.
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Cocktails and Le LYS Bar
Le LYS is the cocktail bar at Château de Cognac. From sipping neat to classics to something more inventive, there is a drink for everyone here. They also offer other alcohols from the Bacardi-Martini range of products (including Benedictine, Grey Goose, Bombay Sapphire, Patron, Dewar’s…). The main bar is accessible on the ground level with seating indoors and several outdoor patios.
I personally loved the upstairs terrasse overlooking the Charente River. Tastefully decorated, it has a wonderful summer-vacation type of vibe with very comfortable seating and great views. Very relaxing and chic.
The sidecar is arguably the most classic cognac cocktail. Made with cognac, orange liqueur, and lemon juice, it actually changed the way that cocktails were made back in the day. It introduced lemon/citrus into the cocktail world — citrus in beverages was mostly just for sailors trying to avoid scurvy at the time! Anyways, I obviously tried one at the Château and it was great.
In addition to cognacs, the Château’s gift shop also offers locally produced Merlet liqueurs. They are experimenting with new fruity cognac cocktails. I tried one containing crème de Cassis and Cognac d’Usse VSOP. It was quite summery and easy to drink. I recommend getting an extra shot of cognac to add a little more spice and to cut the sweetness.
The upstairs terrasse has a particularly inventive cocktail list, using unexpected ingredients and themes. The menu was made in partnership with Julien Escot, named the Most Influential French Bartender and winner of several international bartending awards. I tried the Japanese Gangster cocktail. WOW — I can say that is one of the best cocktails I have had in France. Cognac d’Usse VSOP, fresh lemon, Orgeat-sesame syrup, crème d’Abricot, and yuzu liqueur. It was so delicious and I highly recommend it. I would go back to Cognac for another glass!
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Cognac Blues Passions: Groove au Château
My visit coincided with Cognac Blues Passions, the famous annual Blues festival hosted in Cognac. Visitors from all over the world flock to town to see concerts in fantastic venues with their favourite brandies in hand. I was invited to watch the multi-talented Jerron Paxton at Groove au Château. Hosted in the States Room, I witnessed some of the best harmonica and banjo I have ever heard. He also played guitar, fiddle, piano, and sang (really great voice). Even though it was 35C and 100% humidity, Jerron was still able to deliver a fantastic performance and even returned for an encore. What a treat!
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Other Highlights
The Boutique
The boutique is very worth visiting. For starters, the space is really lovely and full of great souvenirs for any budget. You can get bottles in various sizes too. They are not just limited to alcohol — there are posters, glasses, and other accessories available. I don’t think their bar cart is available for purchase, but it gave me some home-decorating inspiration…
There are many products that are exclusively available here. I mentioned earlier that d’Usse VSOP is hard to come by in France and this is one of the only places where you can find it here. There are also very rare bottles of Otard for a lucky few.
One thing that I found particularly cool was a personalised bottle-filling station. Here, visitors have the opportunity to fill a bottle with an exclusive Otard cognac blend only available here. They can then make a custom label. Perfect for gifting!
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Lunch
My lunch was a nice bonus to my visit. Because this was a press trip, it is a little different than what is normally available on the menu. In a convivial picnic-inspired meal, I enjoyed several dishes and really good bread presented in a picnic basket — very French and sweet!
The entrée was a refreshing salad. Veal with new potatoes was the main. Next were tasty cheeses. The dessert was a decadent moelleux au chocolat. I was very full after eating all this!
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Visiting Cognac
Because I already have a very comprehensive guide about visiting Cognac here, I will not go into detail in this article. However, I want to add that if you visit during Blues Passions, the town is decked out in Blues-themed decor and there is live entertainment everywhere! Really fantastic atmosphere.
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Overall Thoughts: Visiting Château de Cognac
Overall, visiting Château de Cognac is an absolute MUST if you are in the region. Not only does it give a delicious introduction to the world of cognac, especially Otard and d’Usse, it also immerses visitors into an important part of French (and North American!) history. It is the perfect place to experience classic Château life, ancient cellars, and the art of drinks all at once. I really appreciated my visit and would go back again. Thank you to Bacardi for this exceptional opportunity!
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