Mazzei Winery is one of the oldest winemakers in Italy, if not the world. Nestled in the enchanting hills of Tuscany, it has been run by the same family for over 600 years. More than just a wine-making establishment, it’s a living testament to the region’s vinicultural legacy spanning centuries. From its humble beginnings in the 14th century to its modern-day reputation as a beacon of excellence, the history of Mazzei is a captivating tale of innovation and unwavering dedication to producing exceptional wines. I had the most impressive time visiting Mazzei and wanted to share my experience with you here.
Menu
Introduction
The Visit
The Wines
Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2020
Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019
Castello Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019
Badiòla Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019
Concerto di Fonterutoli Toscana IGT 2020
Philip Toscana IGT 2020
Overall Thoughts
Introduction
The Mazzei family founded their winery in 1435. This marked the beginning of a pioneering lineage that would shape the very essence of Tuscan winemaking. Rooted in the Chianti Classico region, the winery’s inception coincided with the emergence of early viticultural practices, laying the foundation for what would become a legacy of grape cultivation and winemaking prowess. The family’s oldest vineyards are found in the three neighbouring villages of Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. In addition, Mazzei also owns vineyards in Maremma and Sicily.
More than half a millenium is a long time. Of course, the family faced numerous challenges including changing political landscapes and agricultural transformations. Their innovative spirit helped them ride the waves of change, revolutionizing Italian wine-making as a whole.
The Mazzei Legacy: Supertuscans
The concept of Supertuscans emerged as a response to restrictive 20th century wine regulations in Italy. These new regulations included dictating the percentage of Sangiovese in the wines, as well as a misguided requirement that inferior local white grapes comprise a portion of red blends. In response, Italian winemakers sought to create unique, high quality blends that transcended the limitations of the regional classifications of Chianti DOC/DOCG and nearby regions. They coined the name “Supertuscan” for these new wines.
One of Mazzei’s notable contributions was to embrace this new movement, introducing Bordeaux grape varieties, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, to complement the traditional Sangiovese grapes. This bold move marked a turning point in Tuscan wine-making, diversifying the region’s offerings and setting a new standard for quality.
Today, Mazzei produces a selection of wines that includes Supertuscans to classic Chianti DOCG and even ranges from particular vineyards.
The Mazzei Legacy: American Wine
Filippo Mazzei, an Italian physician and viticulturist, was a good friend of Thomas Jefferson. This friendship significantly influenced American history. In fact, “All men are created equal”, the famous line of the Declaration of Independence, was inspired by from Mazzei’s letters to Jefferson. But his contributions to America did not end there: played a pivotal role in bringing wine to America.
Invited by Thomas Jefferson to his Italian-inspired Monticello estate in 1773, Mazzei embarked on an ambitious project to introduce European grapevines to Virginia’s soil. He brought with him a wealth of knowledge from Tuscany, Italy, and planted vineyards with vines imported from Europe. Despite numerous challenges, including the harsh climate and unsuitable local grape varieties, Mazzei’s efforts laid the groundwork for American viticulture. His collaboration with Jefferson marked the beginning of a long journey towards establishing a thriving wine industry in the United States, demonstrating the potential for quality wine production in the New World.
The Visit
A visit to Mazzei’s Fonterutoli winery begins with breathtaking views of the Tuscan countryside (Siena to be precise). Perched on one of these iconic hilltops, the facilities form a practical, but non-imposing, semicircle behind one of their vineyards. Beehives can also be spotted here, part of their sustainable management programme.
The winery is a really remarkable project. Completely modern and aesthetic, it uses centuries-old knowledge to operate with low environmental impact. In short, their whole process relies on gravity. The winery is built on three levels (two underground). Handpicked grapes collected in the plaza (photo above) drop to the cuverie, then drop once again to age in wood barrels before bottling. This is pretty innovative and energy-efficient. Their engineering and architectural feats are famous and applauded within the Italian wine world.
The cuverie consists of 74 large steel vats with a capacity for 100 hl. This allows grapes from each parcel to process separately, preserving their biodiversity and a series of high quality small scale wine batches.
More than 3000 French oak barrels are quietly ageing away in the vast subterranean cellar. Back when they were digging this 15m deep cavern, they discovered that there were five natural water streams flowing through the rock. They left parts of these streams exposed, helping to naturally regulate the temperature and humidity of the cellar. I absolutely loved that I could go right up to the naked rock walls — which are still dripping water. It is an impressive sight to see and my photos don’t do this room justice!
After visiting the facilities, I was led back to the tasting room/boutique, where I had the privilege of tasting a range of Mazzei’s wines.
The Wines
Mazzei’s Castello di Fonterutoli wines are world renown, often scoring 90+ (usually at least 94+) by top critics. I had the chance to try five of their wines after the tour, both from their classic range and their more exclusive ones. I added a sixth wine that I had the chance to try upon my return to France.
Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2020
This is Mazzei’s entry-level wine and top seller. James Suckling gave it 93 points. A blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Malvasia Nera, and 5% Colorino, 2020 started off as a difficult year in the vineyards because of a lack of rain. However, the growing season balanced out, leading to an extremely rewarding harvest. This wine is well proportioned, intense, with an elegant body. It is a fruity wine with notes of juicy dark berries and spices like cinnamon and black pepper; an overall smooth taste. I can see why it is so popular. It is very good value for its price and would pair well with all sorts of BBQ and stewed meats.
Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019
Something that draws me to Mazzei is its unique ties with history. It is not just an old wine producer: it celebrates its heritage through its wines. Ser Lapo is named after an ancient relative, Ser Lapo Mazzei, the “father” of Chianti Classico. He wrote the first documented reference to Chianti as a production region on the 16th December 1398, several decades before the Mazzei winery was founded.
A classic blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, this wine received 94 points by James Suckling. 2019 was an outstanding year for grape-growers, with perfect conditions reminiscent of the great vintages of the 1980s. Ser Lapo 2019 manages to be rich and full of structure yet fresh at the same time, with perfectly balanced tannins. It has approachable complexity with notes of currants, blueberries, raspberries, earthiness, and baking spices. Ready to drink, we treated ourselves to a bottle alongside local charcuterie and cheeses. Highly recommend!
Castello Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019
In 2017, Mazzei introduced their Gran Selezione range. It is the Italian version of Grand Crus, in which the wines are made exclusively from the best grapes of the best selected vineyards. They are also aged longer than regular Chianti wines. I mentioned earlier than Mazzei has vineyards in three different municipalities: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. The estate wanted to celebrate the diversity of their different terroirs through their Grand Selezione wines — in fact, each one has a different microclimate, soil type, and altitude.
Castello Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019 received a whopping 95+ points across the board by critics. 100% Sangiovese, it is an impressive, full-bodied wine with tight tannins and an elegant finish. The aromas are fantastic: cherry, floral, cedar, orange zest, and spicy all at once. They recommend it with truffles: a sublime pairing. It is still a bit young though — I would wait to drink it in a couple of years. But like many of Mazzei’s wines, you can keep it in your cellar for at least another couple of decades.
Badiòla Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019
Again from the Gran Selezione range, Badiòla Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019 comes from a completely different terroir: it is in fact the coldest microclimate. Even though it is also 100% Sangiovese, this is a completely different wine. Still perfectly balanced, it is more acidic with lighter tannins. The aromas are jammier and softer — maraschino cherries, violet, a little earthy and herbal, and a hint of iodine. It also received very high scores from critics and would pair well with lighter dishes like pizza or veal. Again, I would wait a couple of years before opening this one.
Concerto di Fonterutoli Toscana IGT 2020
If you are looking for a wine that will wow you, this is it. Concerto di Fonterutoli Toscana IGT 2020 is a Super Tuscan of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Again with the Mazzei legacy, Concerto was developed in 1981, when experimental viticulture was beginning to take hold in the region. It became one of the forerunners of the Super Tuscans phenomenon.
This powerfully seductive wine was scored 96 points by James Suckling and for good reason. It is bursting with ripe black cherries, plum, pomegranate, grilled herbs (think sage, rosemary, thyme…), with nuances of leather and minerality. The flavours just jump out of the glass. It is velvety in the mouth with lively acidity. Absolutely superb and encapsulates the essence of the style of the house. Concerto was such a treat to drink — I think it would be even more incredible after ageing another few years in the cellar. To pair with braised meats. 100% recommend!
Philip Toscana IGT 2019
I had the chance to try this wine a few weeks after my visit and wanted to share my thoughts. This is another wine that pays homage to Mazzei’s family history. Philip Mazzei, political thinker and pioneer, was a good friend of Thomas Jefferson. Indeed, the famous line of the Declaration of Independence “All men are created equal” was paraphrased from the writings of Philip Mazzei to Thomas Jefferson. But his contributions to America did not end there: he brought grape vines and his know-how from Tuscany to Virginia, establishing viticulture in the New World.
This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is a highly rated classic Cab Sauv with an Italian twist. Philip is fruit-forward with blackberry and black cherry, as well as hints of herbiness, spices, and coffee. Expect a lovely round in the mouth with pleasant acidity — a tell-tale sign of Tuscan grapes. It is an elegant wine that would pair well with grilled meats, hearty cheeses, and even spicy dishes. I am currently ageing a few bottles in the cellar!
Overall Thoughts
Overall, my visit was incredible. It was more than just a tour of an innovative world-class winery with great wines. Mazzei Winery stands as a testament to the family’s enduring legacy and their profound influence on Italian winemaking. The wines produced on this historic estate are not just beverages. They are a fusion of tradition, innovation, and a deep-rooted connection to the land; a captivating narrative of passion, resilience, and a commitment to quality that spans generations.
As I raised a glass of their meticulously crafted wines, I not only tasted the fruits of their labour. I experienced a slice of history and a family’s profound contribution to the world of wine.
If you can make it to their winery, I highly recommend a visit. Tours are offered several times a day, usually booked in advance. They are offered in different languages. Our tour was actually in Italian but our guide kindly translated everything and answered our (many) questions.
If you can’t, don’t worry. You can still experience the wonder of Mazzei through their wines. They are absolutely a must-try for anyone looking for exceptional Italian wines.
Grazie mille for this visit!
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