Jean-Claude Boisset is a name synonymous with Burgundian wines. The flagship estate of one of France’s largest wine groups, Boisset is known for producing spectacular cuvées. These wines appear on the great tables of the world and are a favourite of Burgundy-lovers. Including me! After visiting Jean-Claude Boisset on a recent trip to Burgougne, I had to share my experience with you. Read all about it below.
Menu
Introduction
The Ursulines
The Visit
The Tasting
Overall Thoughts
Introduction
The story of Jean-Claude Boisset is fairly recent (for French wine, anyways). Jean-Claude and his wife Claudine founded a winery in the mythical village of Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy… at the humble age of 18. Through impressive tenacity, he was already exporting his wines throughout Europe less than a decade later. As the business expanded, it moved its operations to Vougeot, then to Nuits-Saint-Georges, its current location. Boisset also diversifies its products, introducing spirits in the late 1980s and sparkling wines in the 1990s.
Today, the estate is run by the second generation of the Boisset family, Nathalie and Jean-Charles Boisset. Since 1999, they have been working closely with esteemed winemaker Grégory Patriat — who has really turned these wines into fine wines. Small yields that highlight the terroirs. As little intervention as possible (no added sulfur). And impressive range of whites and reds from all across the Côte de Beaune to the Côte de Nuits:
- Meursault Premier Cru “Les Charmes”
- Beaune Premier Cru “Les Vignes franches”
- Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Pru “Aux Chaignots”
- Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques
- Échezeaux Grand Cru
- Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru… the list goes on.
Overall, Jean-Claude Boisset is known for its exceptional wines that are straight, precise, and silky.
They are also the head of France’s third largest wine group, with some 30 estates under its wing. The estates are across France, as well as the USA and Canada. Charles Boisset is a big fan of California wines in particular and uses traditional Burgundian methods there.
The Ursulines
The Jean-Claude Boisset estate is located in The Ursulines, a divine address in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Constructed of solid, Burgundian stone, this was once a convent, left abandoned when the Ursuline nuns were forced to flee during the Revolution. But their spirit still lingers in the building and the grounds.
Mother Superior’s quarters watch over the Premier Cru vineyards. The labyrinth of cellars, a place of peace and serenity. The enclosed garden, replanted in Urseline-fashion, still murmurs the prayers of the nuns with the gentle sway of the breeze.
The Ursulines winery opened its doors to the public in 2018, about 300 years after the nuns lived there (1717). Almost completely destroyed, it has been brought back to life by architect Frédéric Didier, who specializes in historical monuments. It is a gorgeous space that is both contemporary and traditional, between vines and wine – celestial and terrestrial. The design is based on a geobiological design concept and that is ecologically friendly and uses little energy.
The Garden
Behind a promenade, an emblematic element of convents and monasteries, is a beautiful garden. Working with geobiologist Georges Prat, the idea is to create a place based on the circulation of energies, a peaceful atmosphere that invites contemplation and meditation.
Flower beds line the walkways. Fountains dance and sculptures offer points of interest. A gazebo provides a comfortable place to sit and relax. I particularly love seeing the vineyards on the slopes in the background.
The Visit
The Entrance
Visiting Jean-Claude Boisset starts in the absolutely stunning entrance. The bright space is illuminated by natural light entering through floor-to-ceiling windows. Natural wood elements adorn the walls and the use of curved lines breathes life into the room. I have to say that it is one of the most aesthetically pleasing winery entrances I have seen. Even the boutique is a work of art.
Heading upstairs, the visit stops in the old room of Mother Superior. It was here that I learned about the Ursuline nuns and the building itself (discussed earlier). The nuns actually have a connection with Canada, Quebec in particular. The room has a perfect view of the surrounding Premier Cru vineyards of the estate, as well as part of the garden. A statue of Saint Vincent, patron saint of winemakers, gives all his blessing from his alcove.
The Vat Room
The visit then turns to production. The magnificent vat room is built on existing vaulted cellars. A giant stained glass window of grape leaves overlooks the vats. Constellations dot the ceiling. The room really follows the theme of bridging the spiritual with the terrestrial.
The building is passive, meaning it consumes little energy. The building’s green roof is made from the earth extracted from the building of new cellar space and it acts as natural insulation. No air-conditioning is needed.
Once grapes are harvested exclusively by hand and then manually sorted, they arrive at the winery. Pinot Noir bunches enter thermoregulated vats by gravity. The wines ferment for three weeks to a month depending on the appellation and the vintage. There are 54 wooden vats, ranging in age from only a few years old to about two decades, with capacities of 15, 35, 45 and 55hl in order to be able to adapt to the size of the different plots. There are also 25 stainless steel vats of 10, 30, 60hl, and 100hl. No extra sulphur is added. Filling and bottling are done without pumping.
After the pressing of white grapes, the future wines enter the cellar to ferment in barrels for twelve to eighteen months.
The Cellars
Visiting Jean-Claude Boisset continues in the cellars. Nine hundred classic Burgundian barrels are within the three red wine cellars dating back to 1896. Truly an impressive sight. About a third are new and made with long heating at a low temperature. This gives a discreet woodiness to the wines, without overpowering the nuances of the different parcels.
A small gate around a corner of the cellar holds a treasure trove of old vintages, as well as a curious reflective silver orb.
The cellar visit ends at the jaw-dropping Cave des Blancs. Inspired by the Basilica of Vézelay, it is a beautiful space of Burgundian stone and vaults. Carved into the stone are 12 keys, representing the cycle of nature and the agricultural months of the year.
The cellar houses 250 demi-muids, large 450 L barrels. This limits the impact of woody aromas on the white wines and also preserves the acidity of the Chardonnay. Perfectly balancing the wines. A few barrels of exceptional Grand Cru reds are also on display. The tastings start here.
On the way out, I had the chance to peruse the Boisset Wine Library. It is home to an incredible selection of wines acquired and/or preserved by the estate. Some of the oldest wines are almost a century old! Such a marvellous discovery.
The Tasting
The tasting experience at Jean-Claude Boisset includes six wines — one of which is directly from the barrel. Three are whites and the other three are reds.
Tasting directly from a barrel is particularly special. This rare experience is usually only reserved for professionals. Or for the lucky few who participate in the hospices of Beaune and Nuits-Saint-Georges: they are able to taste the wines before they are officially ready to be sold.
I tasted the Jean-Claude Boisset Marsannay 2021 from the barrel. Not quite at its final “form” so to speak, it is still young but has enticing citrus notes. I am definitely looking forward to trying this one again in a couple of years.
The tasting then moved to the Coeur de verre , a glass room located at the back of the Cave des Blancs. Notebooks and pencils are conveniently provided for note taking. My tasting notes are below.
Jean-Claude Boisset Marsannay Blanc 2018
Pale yellow with golden reflections, this wine has lovely aromas of buttery white flowers and yellow fruits (nectarine, apple). A hint of vanilla. Voluptuous in the mouth, it would be delicious alongside flaky white fish or even chicken with a nice cream sauce.
Jean-Claude Boisset Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur Gamay Blanc 2020
A seductive wine from a superb vintage. Pale yellow. Delicate but complex aromas of hazelnuts and citrus. Perfectly buttery but the minerality still shines though. Expertly balanced and chiselled in the mouth with a velvety finale. It’s what I look for in Chardonnays. I actually loved this one so much that I purchased a bottle.
Jean-Claude Boisset Marsannay Rouge 2017
Intensely ruby with an expressive, fruity nose. Black cherry, strawberry, black pepper, and dark chocolate aromas. Not overly tannic and ready to drink with steak.
Jean-Claude Boisset Nuits-Saint-Georges Le Coteau des Bois Rouge 2018
More complex and intense. Very nice red berry aromas with notes of leather, pepper, tobacco, and liquorice. It is definitely a gourmande red with a big mouth feel and long finish.
Jean-Claude Boisset Pommard 1er Cru Les Arvelets Rouge 2017
Pommard has a special place in my heart and this one certainly lived up to my expectations. The nose is fabulous: fresh red fruits, like cherry, violet, pepper, and chocolate. Very silky tannins and surprisingly fresh. This was my second favourite of the tasting (a very close runner up!).
Overall Thoughts
Overall, visiting Jean-Claude Boisset is a MUST for lovers of Burgundy. Already a fan of his wines, I feel privileged to be able to go behind the scenes of such an important and iconic winemaker. Being able to learn everything about the wines and winemaker, seeing the facilities, sampling directly from the barrel, and tasting a range of fine wines is such an incredible experience. I highly recommend visiting Jean-Claude Boisset and adding these wines to your own collections! Thank you for this wonderful experience.
