Nestled in the unassuming suburb of Asnières-sur-Seine, just a few kilometers north-west of downtown Paris, is one of the most exclusive locations in France: the fabled home of the Louis Vuitton family and his riverside workshop.
While the family had moved out in the 1960s, access to the home is still by invitation-only. It now hosts members of royalty from around the world, celebrities, billionaires, top clients, and a few very lucky LVMH employees. I had the incredible opportunity of being invited for lunch and a tour of the adjoining museum, which has recently been built to display some of the Maison’s eye-opening archives.
The Louis Vuitton family home carries a great legacy. In 1859, less than five years after Vuitton founded his eponymous house in Paris, the growing demand for his luggage trunks required that he move from his original petite atelier in Paris to the quiet rural town of Asnières, which had yet to be made famous by The Impressionists.
This was a clever business decision, as the town’s location on the banks of the River Seine facilitated boat deliveries of raw materials, including the poplar wood Vuitton used. It was also accessible via train; one of the first railway lines in France passed through the village. Just across the river, on Rue Neuve-des-Capucines, stood the first Louis Vuitton store.
The new workshop was a construction ahead of its time. Built out of steel beams, it draws parallels to the Eiffel Tower that was erected 33 years later. Unlike the dark, cramped workshops in Paris, this new one is bright and airy. It would become recognized as the heart of Louis Vuitton’s savoir faire. Indeed, this was the birthplace of the creation of the brand’s signature Monogram pattern, as well as the Houdini Challenge to test its patented locks.
To stay close to production, the family lived on the top floor of the workshop. Eventually, they constructed two separate buildings in 1878, which became the family home that we know today.
Speaking of today, most production has been moved elsewhere. Now, this workshop is reserved for the Maison’s most exceptional pieces: hard-sided trunks, items in rare and exotic skins, and all special custom orders. These special orders include extravagant requests and ingenious designs, such as the bed-trunk of explorer Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza and an iPad trunk for Karl Lagerfeld.
Being from humble beginnings in the countryside, Louis Vuitton was a man of simple tastes. Despite his success, the decor in most of his home was relatively paired down and down-to-earth, with a focus on functionality and comfort. Large sun-lit windows and balconies face well-manicured gardens. These days, family heirlooms and photographs are still on display.
On the other hand, the entrance is a completely different story. The spectacular Art-Nouveau living room area was an addition by Louis’ son, Georges in the late 19th century. The first in his family to be educated and well-travelled, the room displays the success and creativity of the family business. A marvelously ornate ceramic fireplace, a bronze bust of Louis Vuitton, ceiling mouldings, and stained glass windows enliven the house. A striped canvas trunk – one of Louis Vuitton’s earlier trunks – is used as a coffee table. Paintings, family photos, and curios from travels can be found on every flat surface.
Georges was actually the creator of the famous LV monogram in 1896. The design was the talk of the town, as it marked the first print that used someone’s initials on luggage. In addition, with a grasp of the English language, Georges traveled to London to establish the first LV store outside of France.
Sitting back in a comfortable chaise, I was able to soak in all this history with a glass of champagne in hand.
A butler-served lunch was enjoyed on the sun-drenched terrace. With a view of the atelier and surrounded by citrus trees, flowering bushes, and perfectly trimmed hedges, the meal began with rillettes and a fresh green bean and tomato salad.
Champagne was then exchanged for Domaines Ott* AOC Côtes de Provence, a juicy red wine from the South of France. Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon make up the blend. Ripe berry aromas (blueberry, cherry, blackcurrant) develop over notes of chocolate, with a hint of spice.
The main course was perfectly light for a hot summer day. Creamy chicken supreme was served with sole meunière (brown butter sauce, parsley and lemon) and an assortment of steamed seasonal vegetables.
The meal wound down with a dessert that was equally as refreshing. A slice of freshly baked lemon poppyseed loaf was served alongside a fruit salad made with locally grown melons, pears, and berries.
Following the meal, I was escorted on a guided tour of the Vuitton Museum, which adjoins the historical workshops of the famous brand. Home to the original works and the archives of the society, it also boasts of impressive multimedia and multisensory displays, as well as a small cinema. In fact, a large number of treasures are carefully kept within these walls: 23,000 objects and 165,000 documents, including 110,000 customer records. The innovative folding travel bed that I mentioned earlier in this post is one of the items on display.
Luggage was Louis Vuitton’s specialty and really the heart of the brand. They specialize in many travel solutions, including quite a few eccentric requests. One of such is a tea case made in 1926 for the Maharajah of Baroda’s hunting expeditions. Whether traveling by Rolls Royce, horseback, or even elephant, the pieces inside remained intact. The leather used for this was the precursor to the modern day Epi leather.
Innovation and attention to detail is key to LV’s success. Since the beginning, the goal for LV suitcases is to protect even the most fragile objects during long journeys. The company not only made sure that their luggage was easily stackable (preventing slipping), it also developed some of the first waterproof (and lightweight) designs. LV even made sure to include padded compartments for more delicate items like perfume bottles. In the 1920s, impressive vanity trunks were created, filled with crystal scent vials in various sizes, ivory mirrors, and tortoiseshell hair brushes.
Other interesting artifacts include a storage case for FIFA World Cup footballs, picnic and whiskey trunks, flower cases, and limited edition purses (particularly collaborations with world-renown artists and designers like Frank Gehry and Yayoi Kusama).
Perfumes also make an appearance, including the first scents of the Maison: Heures d’Absence (1926), Je, Tu, Il (1928), and Eau de Voyage (1946). These are surrounded by a shroud of mystery: while the bottles remain in perfect condition, the liquid inside has long evaporated and there are no longer records of the original recipes.
My visit finished back in the courtyard, where I was gifted a little momento of the family home: a jar of honey from the apiary on the Louis Vuitton grounds. A sweet gesture after a remarkable day learning not just about the brand and Louis Vuitton, but also about the impact he has on the luxury industry, as well as the travel industry. I feel incredibly lucky to have had this experience and thank LVMH.
