Dieppe is a fishing port on the Normandy coast of northern France. It is a vibrant harbour town with lots to offer. Fresh seafood, a lively port, a bustling farmers’ market, white limestone cliffs, a beach, and old cobblestone streets make it an attractive weekend getaway. In this post, I share what to visit in Dieppe.
Many Canadians will recognize the name from history textbooks: this is the site of the tragic Dieppe Raid, which cost the lives of many Canadians and Allied forces in World War II. There are monuments around the old town, as well as a museum.
But besides the War, Dieppe has a long and fascinating history of seafaring, dating back to the Vikings. With its deep waters, fishing was always an important trade here. From the 15th century, this included long-distance cod-fishing off Newfoundland — another link with Canada. Many bold adventurers set out from the port to explore and trade in Africa.
I had the opportunity to visit this historic town over the weekend, for roughly 24h. While museums were closed due to Covid-19, it was still fascinating to explore this area, to let its past sink in, and to really appreciate what it is now.
When I stepped off the train in Dieppe, I was immediately whipped with harsh winds and stinging rain. Little did I know, winter is storm season in northern France. Tempête « Justine » is currently in full force with winds up to 102 km/h. To find refuge, I popped into Eglise Saint-Jacques, Dieppe’s oldest and largest church.
Originally built in the 12th century for pilgrims on the way to Saint Jacques de Compostela, it eventually burnt down and was rebuilt over several centuries. Little by little, the church grew and became cathedral-sized. Its impressive belfry tower is over forty meters high. The church is also about to acquire a relic of Pope John-Paul II: a blood-stained piece of clothing.
During my visit, the organist was practicing. The reverberations of the instrument and the sound of the wind through a broken window pane were haunting. In contrast, the interior itself was bright and inviting. Marvelous carvings adorned every surface, including the ceiling.
Once the storm died down a bit, I ventured back out to check in to my Airbnb. On the way, I stopped by Le Fournil, a bakery on the main pedestrian street. Their specialty is Étoiles de mer: crispy choux pastry shaped like starfish! I grabbed a couple to snack on.
Continuing down this same pedestrian street, I stumbled on Conserverie la belle–iloise. Its iconic blue storefront with an eye-catching display of colourful tins cannot be missed. They specialize in gourmet canned fish products, includings sardines, rillettes, mousses, and more. They not only have classics like sardines in olive oil or tomato sauce… they have a wide variety of interesting flavours like Cognac infused lobster and Pollock confit with Sichuan peppers. As a gourmande, I obviously had to step in and buy (maybe too many) things! Of course, I wrote a blog post about this place too. It’s amazing.
In front of the store, you can’t miss La Place du Puits Salé (“Square of the Salted Well”). This square is smack dab in the heart of the old town. It got its name from back in the day, when the well’s water would be mixed with sea water when the tide rose. Across from the well is Café des Tribunaux, a favourite spot for famous visitors.
On Saturday mornings, this area transforms into a market, covering more than 2km! This market is a must-see: it has been rated as one of the best in France — a big deal since there are markets in nearly every city, town, and village here. I wrote all about it in a separate post here.
Looking to the side, you can catch glimpses of the harbour through the narrow cobblestone streets. Hundreds of boats fill the water, in all shapes and sizes. Colourful old buildings and a spacious boardwalk overlook the water. The view includes Église Notre-Dame de Bonsecours perched on a cliff and the Pont Colbert. This 19th century iron swing bridge is the only one left in Europe that still operates using its original mechanics!
My Airbnb was actually around the corner from the harbour. I don’t normally blog about where I stay, but the rooftop views were fantastic. And the beach was only a 4 minute walk down the street! In fact, I could see it from one of the windows.
I couldn’t just look at the beach from a distance — I had to actually go there! It was still pretty windy from the storm, but at least the rain had stopped, helping me take some great, dramatic photos.
The pebbly beach is located along the scenic Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster Coast), mirroring the famous white chalk cliffs across the English Channel.
Stretching over 1.5km, this beach is France’s oldest seaside resort. In the early 1800s, Duchesse du Berry popularized the trend of sea bathing here. The area became a popular spot for the sea’s perceived therapeutic properties. Bathing structures, casinos, theaters, restaurants, and more opened up here to welcome guests. As this is the closest beach from Paris, it is still a very popular destination in the summer.
When in season (and not in a pandemic), there are a multitude of activities for everyone here. All sorts of sports, boat excursions, lounging areas, and even an international kite festival are hosted at this beach.
During my visit, it was relatively quiet, with a sole brave windsurfer taking advantage of the weather. In fact, it was wildly windy when I first arrived. Sea foam flew everywhere — so much, that it looked like a blizzard! Huge waves crashed against the beach. I had saved an Étoile de mer for my walk here, but it almost blew away when I took it out of its paper bag!
Towards the east of the beach is a pier. Waves crashed dramatically up its sides. Its wooden boards were slick with sea salt and birds circled overhead, hoping to grab whatever tasty fish were launched to the surface. It was too dangerous for anyone to be there and there were barricades blocking entry. Instead, I returned the next morning, when the storm dissipated and the weather was much better. The boardwalk around the lighthouse was crowded with fishermen reaping in fresh catches for their families and local restaurants.
Towards the west of the beach are the famous white chalk cliffs. As I walked in in that direction, the wind calmed and skies turned blue! It immediately became more lively with lots of locals arriving — some with their swimsuits, even though the water was frigid.
The cliffs, known as falaises, are dramatic and impressive. Many famous French artists, like Claude Monet, had visited Dieppe to paint them. At over 100m high, they offer stunning views and are also refuge for countless seabirds. Large caves dot the creamy white rockface.
At the base are reefs — rocky shoals where locals were collecting mussels, bulots (whelks aka tasty sea snails), and other shellfish. This is also a great place to collect beautiful shells and to take a dip inside the English channel.
Returning to town in a scenic pedestrian walkway. It is lined with bars, restaurants, bistros, lounge chairs, and more that add to a pleasant beach resort experience. Unfortunately, because of Covid restrictions, everything was closed… but they still offered nice ambience.
And there is also a view of the Château de Dieppe — a medieval castle dating back to the 1100s. Overlooking the city, it offers fantastic views of the old town, the sports facilities (some of the largest in France), and the shore. It is normally open to the public and has walking paths around it. It is definitely worth the short hike to visit.
As the sun started to set and it was nearly time for curfew, it was time to find dinner! Restaurants are closed for sit-in meals, but many offer takeout options. Along the boardwalk, I stopped spotted Le New Haven, a popular seafood restaurant that specializes locally-sourced seafood dishes. I went for paella, the special of the evening. WOW it was DELICIOUS. Super generous portion with lots of shellfish and a huge chicken leg. The flavours were spot on. It was amazing and I would highly recommend visiting this restaurant.
I enjoyed it with Champagne Piot-Sévillano Millésime Edition 2010. I brought a mini bottle from my Champagne advent calendar. Yum!
Overall, Dieppe is a wonderful seaside resort. It is close enough to Paris to make it the perfect weekend getaway. It has a lot to offer: historical sites, great restaurants, a wonderful market, beautiful views, and a leisurely beach. If you have a little more time, it is also worth exploring other popular destinations nearby like Étretat and Honfleur. Hope that you can pay it a visit and that my little guide helps!
